How to Build a Cornhole Toss Set

Learn how to build a cornhole board set out of 2×4’s and a little plywood. DIY Pete’s video and plans walk you through the entire building process. You can download the plans here.

Tools

Power Drill
12″ Miter Saw
Orbital Sander
Jig Saw
Optional 6″ Hole Saw for the circle (or you may use a Jig Saw)
Kreg Jig – (Optional)
CriCut Vinyl Stencil Cutting Machine (Optional)
Compass
Tape Measure
Square

Total Cost For Wood and Materials: Approximately $75-$100
Cornhole Toss Bags are $28.00 on Amazon

I used a vinyl stencil to paint on a Nebraska Huskers design. I have a large Graphtec Vinyl Cutting Machine, yet there is a much more affordable option from CriCut. You can also order custom stencils and NCAA licensed decals from companies like decalsextremeonline.com and vinyldisorder.com.

Wood to buy for entire set (both boards):
Qty: 4   Type: 2×4 by 8 feet long
Qty: 2   Type: 1/2 thick plywood (2feet by 4 feet)

Hardware to buy:
Qty: 4   Type: 3/8 inch carriage bolts (4 and 1/2 inches long)
Qty: 4   Type: 3/8 inch washers
Qty: 4   Type: 3/8 inch wing nuts

Other Supplies:
2.5 inch wood screws
1.5 inch wood screws
120 grit sandpaper
Paint
Masking tape / stencils
MinWax SemiGloss Polyurethane

Supplies/Equipment for Making the Bags
Sewing Machine
Duck Cloth
Thread
Dried Corn, Beans, or Plastic Pellets

Cut List For Entire Project (both boards)
QTY: 4 – 2×4  – 48″ long (Sides of platform)
QTY: 4 – 2×4 – 21″ long  (Short sides of platform)
QTY: 4 – 2×4 – 12″ long (Legs, will shorten with an angle in a later step)
QTY: 2 – 1/2 thick plywood (2 feet by 4 feet) – For the Platform Top

Materials for Building a Cornhole Toss GameThe Build

Build a Cornhole Toss Game1. Build the frame

First, you’ll want to build the frame for the cornhole platform. Lay the 2×4’s on a flat surface and connect the boards using 2 1/2 wood screws. I’d recommend drilling pilot holes prior to using the screws to eliminate the chances of wood splitting. Use 2 screws in each corner. More info and blueprints in downloadable plans.

cornhole-board-plans-diy-pete

cornhole-board-plansYou may also connect your boards using pocket holes if you have a Kreg Jig. This is 100% optional. The benefits are that all screws are hidden and you don’t have to fill screw holes with putty on the top platform. See the video tutorial above for more details.

kreg-jig-cornhole-boards2. Connect the top Platform

Use 1 1/2 inch long wood screws to attach the 1/2 inch plywood to the 2×4 frame. Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting when the screw goes in. Place screws around the perimeter of the board spaced about every 8-10 inches. Countersink the screws a bit so you can fill them in with wood putty in a later step.
attaching-the-plywood-top-for-cornholeOptional: You may use a Kreg Jig to connect the frame to the plywood. This will create pocket holes so you can attach the plywood from the underside. Using pocket holes will make it so you do not have any holes that need to be filled on the top surface. If using this method, set your Jig and drillbit to the 1/2 inch setting and screw it together with 1 inch Kreg screws.

how-to-use-a-kreg-jig3. Make and attach legs

Cut the legs for each platform to 12 inches. Later, we’ll angle the boards and shorten them just a bit. First, measure 1 3/4 inches down from the top of the board and make a mark. Second, measure 1 3/4 inches from the side. You’ll drill a 3/8 inch hole where the center marks are. Use a compass to draw an arc which will round off the top so the legs will be able to fold.

how-to-make-cornhole-board-legsUse a jig saw to cut the arc for the top of each leg. Then run an orbital sander around each to smooth them out.

cornhole-board-legsAttach the legs to each board

The rounded side should be flush with the corner. Then use a 3/8 inch drill bit to go through the hole in the leg and to create a new hole in the 2×4 frame behind it. Learn more in downloadable plans.

how-to-attach-legs-to-cornhole-boards

drilling-hornhole-board-holesUse 4 1/2 inch long 3/8 inch carriage bolts to attach the leg. Put a washer and wing nut on the inside of the leg.  Check to make sure they open and close easily. You can use an orbital sander to sand down high spots on the arc in case the leg isn’t folding easily.

folding-legs-for-cornhole-boardLevel and angle the legs

You will need to cut the legs at an angle so they rest evenly on the floor. They typically need to be cut at an angle of about 8 degrees. However, many times the carriage bolt hole is not drilled in the exact spot or there is some warp in the frame which will cause an angle to be slightly different. To ensure the table is 12″ off the ground and has the correct angle I like to level the table using the process below.

Put the cornhole table on a large and flat table. Shove a box underneath and check to ensure the back board is at 12″ above the surface. Once this has been done, slide the corner of the platform over the edge of your surface (Video above helps describe this process).

cornhole-board-plans-and-tutorial

DIY-PETE-connhole-board-plansOnce the table has been slid to the side, you can use the surface below as a straight edge to draw a line for the angle that will need to be cut.

cornhole-leg-angleCut the angle on the miter saw. It will typically range between 5 to 10 degrees. Here is a photo of the legs with the angle cut.

angle-for-cornhole-boardsMake the Hole

The next step is to cut the hole for the platform. I had to re-take a few photos which is why you see a hole in the boards and paint in the previous photos. Measure 9″ down from the top of the board. Then measure 12″ from the side of the board. Where both marks meet is where you will want to mark for the center of the hole. Then use a 6″ hole saw to cut the hole. If you do not have a hole saw you can use a jig saw. Make sure to hand sand the edges of the hole after cutting.

hole-saw-for-cornhole-boards

cornhole-hole-saw

how-to-drill-a-cornhole-board

Here is an example showing cutting a hole using a jig saw. You’ll want to draw a 6″ diameter circle so you have a line to follow.

how-to-use-a-jig-saw-for-cornhole-boardsPaint

Do a google search for all sorts of ideas on how to customize your boards. I used masking tape to create a 1 1/4 inch border and an arrow. Paint the boards using a brush or roller. I used latex paint because it has low VOC (fumes) and is durable.

Paint Your Own Cornhole Toss BoardI used a vinyl stencil to paint on a Nebraska Huskers design. I have a large Graphtec Vinyl Cutting Machine, yet there is a much more affordable option from CriCut. You can also order custom stencils and NCAA licensed decals from companies like decalsextremeonline.com and vinyldisorder.com.

husker-cornhole-boardSeal the boards using Minwax Semi-gloss poly

minwax-diy-pete-cornhole-boardsBags

I am not going to go too in-depth on this process, but just want to give you a quick overview. You’ll want to buy enough duck cloth to make 8 bags (4 of each color). Duck cloth is a thick and durable fabric. Cut the fabric pieces in 7″ pieces. Fill each bag with between 14-16 oz of dried corn, beans, or plastic pellets. The finished bags will measure 6×6 inches.

Sewing Materials for Cornhole Toss Bean BagsI’m not much of a sewing type of guy, but ended up figuring it out. This is a pretty useful tool!

Sew Bean Bags for a Cornhole Toss GameFilling the bags with dried corn.

corn-feed-for-cornhole-bagsHave fun end enjoy!!!

Throwing Bean Bags in a Cornhole Toss GameQuestions or comments? Ask away! Feel free to comment below. Cheers and good luck with the project!

  • greenbullet90

    My husband and I have started a business making sets. I love woodworking and he loves painting (Art Degree) so we make a decent team! He hand paints all the designs but we have had a person ask us to do a company logo for them and the decals ended up costing a fortune. Can you send me in a direction for ordering decent decals online? We also make all our bags as well.

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/8e05ab687d9eda6f6fabff2cc6cd1e4f8fb335558b0efab8929ab58fb1fe09be.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/69f7e5389ad1dd2c855bee9f6f2cb0a33b769dc6c5ec453a9fcf0d0eee6ac65c.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/a70db78ddf555b2a28042faa8dfe4b53ce10b31e02fd8971e6b9e51334af163e.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/edf04e52b0d27449b1bd0fcd9412fe795512c90850d63bb95b5c33b0ff0762df.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/4453fb5671685a19925da121bdab81e8ab75bc426d971b205a1089b5491e5591.jpg

    • DIYPETE

      For ordering decals online you I usually recommend decalsextremeonline.com and vinyldisorder.com They are both good services that have reasonable prices. If you can I would recommend going to a local printer as they can print you logo in a few minutes and you can work with them on exactly what you want more easily. Hope this is helpful!

      Cheers!

  • greenbullet90

    My husband and I have started a business making sets. I love woodworking and he loves painting (Art Degree) so we make a decent team! He hand paints all the designs but we have had a person ask us to do a company logo for them and the decals ended up costing a fortune. Can you send me in a direction for ordering decent decals online? We also make all our bags as well.

  • Jimmy

    Hi pete, this is my first diy and having a blast so far. I sanded down the plywood but I’m concerned the bags won’t glide on the plywood. Does the polyurethane help with that? Did I not sand it enough? The plywood was presanded when I bought it

    Thank you

    • DIYPETE

      Hi Jimmy, the polyurethane will definitely help the bags to glide better on the boards. If you are very concerned about it you can sand the boards more, it can only help. In my experience as long as the boards are reasonably smooth, once the paint/poly goes on they are plenty smooth for the bags to slide on.

      • James Stetz

        Hi Pete,
        So here is the finished product. I definitely made mistakes, but am happy overall for my first go at a DIY. The surface still felt rough after applying the poly so I lightly sanded down with 220 grit. It seems to have helped a bit, but still not as smooth as I had imagined based on playing on other boards. I guess I didn’t sand down enough to begin with before the poly. It was great fun because I learned how to use certain tools and to be patient in the process. On to the book case and firewood shed next!! https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5f79249a2cda706d6152b584f1d6b432cf1a3d560f9bf57baf3b826cbad8d66b.jpg

        • DIYPETE

          Great job James! They turned out great! It’s great to hear that you had a fun intro into DIY projects! Feel free to post with any questions about the projects and I will do my best to help. One last note about the smoothness of the cornhole boards, they will break in and get smoother after you have been using the for a little while.

          Cheers!

  • Willie Yates

    Did you put the poly on the whole board or just the top?

    • DIYPETE

      I just put it on the top to protect the surface that will have a lot of wear, but putting it on the underside would certainly seal the wood better! Cheers!

  • Jeremy

    Fantastic video! I’m starting my build tonight…will post pictures as soon as they’re done.

    • DIYPETE

      Great! Can’t wait to see how yours turns out!

  • Jackattack

    Hey Pete or anyone that knows! Where is the best place to get Minnesota decals or decals in general? About to finish mine up! Prefer gopher sports!

    • Hey Jack! A lot of folks find them on Amazon, others go to local sign companies and sometimes they’ll make stencils for you etc if you say they are just being used for yourself. Go Gophers! I am a gopher hockey fan, I grew up in Aberdeen, SD. Cheers!

  • Jacob

    I just started building the boards, and I want to do a Minnesota Vikings one. Do you know what type of paint I could use that would look good??

    • Hi! I’ve used Glidden NFL team colors paint before for a vikings bar table — but you could head to Home Depot and I’m sure they could get you set up with some similar colors.

  • Nora T

    Hey Pete-
    If I’m making 7 sets (its for a girl scout project- I’m donating them), how much miniwax would you say I should get? I’m trying to keep costs down and don’t want to overbuy.

    Thanks!

    • Thanks so much for using your skills to help others! If you are doing 7 sets, I’d say say you’ll most likely want to go with a gallon. If you are using white paint I’d go with a water based minwax poly so the white doesn’t yellow.

  • Brian Bernhard

    Hi Pete,
    Instead of 2×4’s. Could you use 1×4’s? Also could you use thinner plywood? Thinking it would be lighter. Thanks

  • Bam Dorrell

    Hey Pete thanks for the plans for this! Here is one of mine finished. The other will be the joker. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/330d850a451a8437c3271afafa55f49a86dfe0629b502eb9c977b31ce386a735.jpg

    • DIYPETE

      Hey Bam! That looks awesome man! Nice job!

  • Ty
    • DIYPETE

      Looks Great!

  • Michael D Vorpahl

    Hey Pete, just wondering. the paint, is it interior or exterior latex. did you prime it first? regular minwax poly is ok to put over the top of latex?

  • DIYPETE

    Hey Dale! I’d say your first attempt looks fantastic! You and your wife did a great job, thanks for sharing! – Pete

  • Steve Furio

    Hey Pete, thanks for the help. Finished boards came out great.

    • DIYPETE

      Hi Steve! Those turned out great. I’m sure your fire squad is going to get a lot of good use out of them!

  • Trevin Link

    Hey Pete,

    Thanks for the plans! They came out awesome. Wanted to make sure I shared the final outcome with ya!

    • DIYPETE

      Those look awesome!! Great job Trevin!

  • Nora T

    Is a furring strip board what I can use for the 2×4’s?

  • Travis

    Hey Pete,

    Thanks for the awesome instructions. I do have a ? How do I set the Kreg Jig for making my pockets holes and attaching the top? I’m doing trial and error so I don’t put the screws through the top. Any help would be appreciated.

  • Kody Pruitt

    Pete, thanks so much for the awesome plans and video. Wanted to share my project with you and your readers.

  • wjgo

    Wouldn’t 2×4’s be a little excessive in size and weight for the skirt?

    • diypete

      You could certainly use 1×4’s if you’d prefer.

  • wjgo

    Are these official regulation sized?

  • Dan Beau

    Hi Pete, just finished up. Thanks for the help! Went with the alma mater for my colors.

    • diypete

      That looks sharp! Nice work Dan, go WM Broncos!

  • Joel Julian Jimenez

    Hey Pete here’s my finished product. Just one question, after applying the polyurethane sealer the board doesn’t have the same smooth top. I’m thinking the bags won’t slide. Should I sand it to finish it off?

    • DIYPETE

      Wow, those are fantastic! After applying the poly it will be rough. Use some 500 or so grit sanding paper and sand the surface by hand to smooth it out. You can always wipe on a thin final coat after the sanding if needed.

  • Jason Kudym

    Hey Pete

    I’m a Husker fan and would like to know where you ordered the ‘N’ adhesive stencil for cornhole board.
    Thanks!

    • DIYPETE

      Hi Jason!

      I have a vinyl plotter, but a number of folks have gone to a local sign maker and found stencils cheaply. Make sure to let them know it is being used for a personal project not to be sold.

    • Michael D Vorpahl

      Hey Jason, i went to ebay and the site on there i use is – bossdecals
      He has almost all of the major colleges and pro teams. Right around $25 per set. I purchased the Green Bay and the Badgers decals for the two sets i am working on right now for xmas present.

  • Joel Julian Jimenez

    hey pete, did you use pressure treated wood for your project? What wood would you recommend

    • DIYPETE

      Hi Joel! I used pine for this project. I’d recommend a kiln dried wood that you find at your local store. Pine, fir, or spruce are going to work well, and are inexpensive.

  • Luke Miller

    Pete where can you find the circular stencil? I cant find it anywhere and I don’t want to try to free hand a perfect circle around the whole.

    • DIYPETE

      Luke, I happen to have my own vinyl cutter so was able to cut that circle on that. You can check out http://decalsextreme.com or elsewhere to see if they’d be able to make you that. Might have to call/email around to these vinyl stores and custom order that circle. Best of luck, Luke! Cheers

    • Michael D Vorpahl

      bossdecals on ebay is also a good place

  • Eric Stoner

    I have to say you look like a proud father after the birth of your first child sitting behind the sewing machine! Thanks again for all the time you spend showing us in depth how to do these projects!!! We are lucky to have you around for help!! How do we donate? I am a mess, I have trouble even doing that. I love building things but, not that good on computers but I am learning.

    • DIYPETE

      Thanks Eric, I appreciate all of the correspondence! It’s a blast making DIY projects, as I’m sure you know. Here is more info regarding supporting DIY Pete: http://www.diypete.com/about/support/ Thank you very much.

      • Eric Stoner

        Pleasure is all mine!

  • Andrew Cefre

    Hey Pete,

    I love that you decided to keep the natural wood shown on the top. I am wanting doing the same thing. Did you use a primer before applying the red paint? I have already purchased a Glidden exterior semi-gloss paint that is acrylic latex. Should I prime the desired areas before applying this paint? I also plan on finishing the top of the board with the same semi-gloss poly.

    • DIYPETE

      Thanks Andrew! I didn’t use a primer, but it would pop a little more if you did use primer. If you’re going to seal it all and will be using a white paint anywhere, you’ll want to use a water-based sealer. The oil-based sealer will give it all a slightly yellowish hue. Best of luck Andrew! Cheers

  • Tanner McManus

    Hey Pete, here is my finished product! Turned out amazing!! Next request: “DIY Nightstand with Concealment Drawer”…. Excited to check out the standing desk project.

    Cheers,
    Tanner

    • DIYPETE

      Wow! You did an amazing job with your set of cornhole boards here, I’m very impressed! Thanks for sharing and keep up the amazing work. Cheers!

  • Ryan

    Hey Pete, I’m working on this project right now and have a quick question about the carriage bolts. Upon drilling a 3/8″ hole in the frame, I attempted to bolt the leg in but I can’t get the carriage bolt to run flush with the side 2×4 due to the hex at the head of the bolt. Do I just need to hammer the carriage bolt in there or do I need to drill a larger hole to facilitate the hex?

    Thanks!

    • Hey Ryan! You can pound it in if you’d like, but the best way would be to drill a wider hole the depth of the hex. A spade bit would be perfect for this, but really any larger bit will do the job. Good luck!

  • whiskeylover

    Thanks for the inspiration, Pete. Here is what I made.

    • DIYPETE

      I love the custom paint job. That looks great, keep it up! Cheers

  • Greg Tautges

    Since you are a twins Fan thought I’d share mine

  • Jeremy Willoughby

    Hey Pete! I followed your how-to video and made my wife some cornhole boards for her birthday, they were a hit! I also made two beer stands with some left over lumber and plywood, I embedded some magnets into the backs of the plaques I used to mount the openers to catch the caps. I tagged the boards with some of my wife’s favorite beers and stickers from our local breweries in NC. Thanks for the great video!!

    • DIYPETE

      Jeremy, this all looks great! Really appreciate you sharing the photos and watching the videos. I bet she was very happy with all of this 🙂 Great idea/design on the beer stands with magnets. Keep it up man! Cheers

  • Scott Harris

    I have made a few sets but I preferred 1x4s over 2x4s. Makes them a little lighter. I just put some cross braces.

    • DIYPETE

      Great idea! Cheers

  • Jason Romaker

    Great info. I added hasp latches with s locks and heavy gauge cord carrying handles. Happy with the project!

    • DIYPETE

      Oh wow!! This looks amazing Jason, great addition adding some carrying handles. I love the Harley Davidson decal and the paint scheme there. Cheers!

  • Jason Romaker

    Great info! Happy with the finished product. I added hasp style fasteners to each board with s locks and carrying handles made out of heavy cord. Thanks.

  • Martin Markos

    Seems I am a little late to the party, but fun project none the less… made them with my dad over a few days. The hardest part was deciding which teams to make/support. JK, we are Lions fans, so it was a no brainer.

    • DIYPETE

      Martin, these look awesome! Great work and it’s never to late to hop on the DIY train and do some fun projects with family. Happy to hear you enjoyed the build. Nice painting/finishing! Cheers

  • Paul Menges

    Hi Pete,

    Great video and set of instructions. I have been making boards for a while now but when I started I was such a novice at woodworking in general that I am consistently looking for ways to streamline my process and/or make the design better/stronger. We never stop learning right?!

    Anyway, just wondering what material you used when you mentioned in the video that you used a custom decal to cut out a stencil of the Huskers “N” logo. Did you just get a 12x? sheet of blank stencil stock? Like a 4 mil plastic or something? I’ve always just used decals from decalextreme where they tend to have tons of teams, but I do like the idea of stenciling so you have me intrigued. I am thinking of trying to use something called Frisket Film which appears to be popular in airbrush circles but has many applications. We’ll see how it goes, but I would like to hear what you used as your stencil material when you have a chance. Take care and here’s a set I recently finished.

    Paul

    • Hi Paul! Your boards look great, and the idea to use stencils for your boards is a good one. I actually have a vinyl plotter now and use it to make all sorts of stencils. This is the model I have: http://amzn.to/1Ku2J8V (affiliate link)— It comes in handy for so many projects. For instance, here is an example of it being used in a metal project I did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQkSaZA-8DY — A local sign maker can do the same thing out of vinyl. I typically use calendared vinyl for stencils since it is cheap. You can also buy a special stencil paper that is somewhat transparent with less adhesive — I’ve done that as well. Let me know if you have any other questions 🙂 Cheers!

  • Steve Geiges

    Hey Pete. Thanks for the info. Quick question regarding the miniwax semi gloss poly. I noticed the container it comes in says it’s for interior use. So I was wondering if it has still held up for your boards since I’m assuming you use them outside not indoors. Thanks.

    • Hi Steve! You could use an outdoor poly for better UV resistance. We store ours in the garage and take them out for events / bbqs. So they honestly are not out all that much. If you’ll be keeping them outdoors all the time it would be a good idea to look into doing an outdoor poly.

  • boofmeister

    you guys are boring a shit with your sports teams.

  • Steven Kreft

    I’ve made several and make the base of the second small enough to fit inside the other. Nesting boards take up a lot less space. If you put a center spar and backing across the smaller board you can store your bags on the inside. I use a small tie down to strap them together for storage. If you want to get real fancy put a spar across between the legs and cut holes for beer/soda cans.

    • Love it! Thanks for the great ideas Steven!

  • Sean E. Bradley

    Hey Pete, I’ve used your instructions several times and up to making my sixth set for family and friends. I recently started using the Kreg jig and wondering what setting you use on the jig for the pocket holes. Your video shows you using 1.25″ screws but what setting is used on the actual jig? I used 2″ screws and used the 1.5″ setting on the jig but didn’t obtain a solid seal (space) between the platform and frame. Curious as to what you settings you used. As always, thanks for your assistance.

  • Neal Royal

    Awesome video! I’m having trouble assembling the base. I connect all of the pieces for the top and sides but end up with a wobbly board. Any suggestions as to why this might be? Or can I compensate for that when adjusting the angles of the legs?

    • Hi Neal! I’m thinking you may have some warped 2×4’s that are causing you to have wobbly boards and may be pulling /stressing the table and causing it to be wobbly. Adjusting the legs can help, but it’s a good idea to solve the problem from the root. Do the boards lay completely flat on a large table without the legs extended?

  • Kurt Murphy

    Hey Pete, here’s how mine turned out.

    • Hi Kurt! The first HOCKEY set I’ve seen! I absolutely love this. Thanks so much for sharing 🙂 I’d have to put the Minnesota Wild on mine since I grew up cheering for them, but I’m sure these boards will be a lot more popular in your neck of the woods with the Sharks. Nice work! – Pete

  • Tom

    What are your settings on the kreg jig for the pocket holes going from 2×4 into 1/2 ply?

    • Michael D Vorpahl

      use the setting for the thickness you are going into. 1/2″ plywood, use the 1/2″ setting.

  • matt

    Hey Pete, how long did you end up waiting before putting on your second coat of paint? You said you pulled your tape before the paint completely dried so I was wondering if you let the first coat dry completely before applying a second coat. Thanks in advance!!

    • Hey Matt, I’m not expert painter by any means — but here is what I did. I waited until the first coat was just past the tacky stage and dry so the roller or brush didn’t pull up or mess with the first layer. (This only took 15 to 20 minutes or so with the latex paint.) I then painted the second coat and pulled the tape while that was still wet. I probably have some room for improvement on how I explained it in the video. 🙂 Anyhow, it didn’t pull off perfectly but pretty darn good and you can use a little paint brush if needed to fix things. You could wait until everything is completely dry if you prefer. I just seem to have a little better luck when I pull the tape off while it’s wet. Let me know if that helps. Best of luck!

  • Greg Madden

    Hi Pete. I will be using a vinyl decal. Is it better to apply the decal before or after the seal? Thanks

    • I’ve done it both ways. But the overall surface is more uniform in texture if you apply the decal and then the finish. If you do the finish first, make sure to do a couple coats and sand with a high grit paper between sandings. This will ensure a smooth surface to apply the vinyl. Anyone else have recommendations? Please chime in 🙂

  • Matthew Ward

    Thanks Pete, turned out great

    • That sure did turn out great!! WOW! Love it 🙂 Are you sure you didn’t mean to but a big N on there though?! J/k — Have fun with the new boards! – Pete

  • George LaBonte

    Hi Pete
    I need to know where I can buy the logo’s to finish progect, I am looking for USF College Tampa Fl.

    • Hey George,

      It’s a little tough but some of the people who’ve built them have been finding a local printer who cut’s vinyl decals to do them. Since they are trademarked, some people won’t do them, but if you say they are just to be used as stencils for a personal project you will probably have luck.

  • Kyle Gilbert

    Where is everyone getting these decals? I’ve tried ordering die-cut Texas A&M decals from VinalDisorders and other places and nobody can do it or it cost like $30 each. Recommendations or ideas?

    • Hey Kyle, It’s a little tough but some of the people who’ve built them have been finding a local printer who cut’s vinyl decals to do them. Since they are trademarked, some people won’t do them, but if you say they are just to be used as stencils for a personal project you will probably have luck.

    • Paul Menges

      Kyle,
      Try this site out, I’m never disappointed with what they send me: https://www.decalsextremeonline.com/Texas-AM-B-Vinyl-Die-Cut-Decal-Sticker-4-Sizes-_p_3730.html

      • Thanks for sharing the link Paul! Super helpful for those needing decals!

  • Ryan

    I found that the clear coat turned the white paint a sort of yellowish hue. Any ideas on how to avoid thisin in the ffuture. Thanks in advance. Boards came out awesome.

    • Hi Ryan, you might look at doing a waterbased sealer. Sometimes the oil based ones can have an off clear or yellowish hue. Cheers and nice work! – DIY PETE

      • Ryan

        Great. Thanks for the tip.

  • Tom H

    I am working on a board now but How do you make the white circle around the hole so its neat and a perfect circle. Thanks

    • I used a custom stencil. Otherwise you could draw a circle and then have a real steady hand. Best of luck Tom!

  • Finished painting last weekend. Very happy with the end result. Thanks for the guide, Pete!

    • Jason! They look awesome and the paint job is great! Thanks for sharing!

  • Guest

    Finished painting last weekend. Very happy with the end result. Thanks for the guide Pete!

  • Joe Rebl

    Picture…

    • NICE!!!!! Great job, those look sharp! Thanks for sharing 🙂

  • Joe Rebl

    Great instructions! Thanks for your help!! My team stinks this year but at least it looks good on a Corhhole set 😉

  • Mike

    Thanks Pete… great instructions!

    • MIke those look awesome!! Where did you get the decals and are you the Twins fan? They are my favorite team and I have quite a bit of family in Minnesota. Thanks for posting the project photos! – Pete

    • Jacob

      What type of paint did you use??

  • Stephen Mata

    Hey Pete. Just wanted to show you the finished product.
    It came out great. Thanks for the pointers!

    • Looks great Stephen! Where did you end up going for stencils? You’ll have to put those boards to good use for some upcoming parties and bbq’s!!! Cheers man and thanks for sharing 🙂

  • Sean

    What are all the settings and size screws you used for your Kreg Jig option? Im having a tough time finding the perfect setup.

  • Stephen Mata

    Awesome board! Great instructions. Question, how big is that decal you put on? I’m looking for a good size U of M decal and I’m having problems finding one. I looked at your link but couldn’t find one. Wondering if you knew anywhere else that has them. Thanks!!

    • Hey Stephen! Thanks man and that’s awesome you are building one! So I know Seth over at Vinyl Disorder can help ya out if you’d like. Send him an email to : sales@vinyldisorder.com and he will get ya set up. I am out of town right now but believe the N on my boards is 10 wide by about 11 tall or so. Let me know what ya find out! Can’t wait to see how your finished project turns out. Post a couple photos of the boards if ya get a chance! – Pete

  • justin philp

    What color did you Use for Nebraska red

    • Hey Justin! I just used the standard Red from Rustoleum which I found at home depot. It’s not labeled Scarlet 🙂 — but get’s the job done!

    • Sorry for the delay. I used the standard red paint made by Rustoleum at Home Depot.

  • WoodLogger

    Very nicely done…! I love Kreg Jig Projects

    • Thanks man! So do I. Gotta love the instant gratification. – Take care! – DIY PETE

  • Mike Lucero

    Really helpful…what a great cornhole project.

    • Thanks Mike! I’d have to say your family got me hooked on this game!