How to Build a Concrete Table

Concrete furniture looks amazing and really is cheap to do. Tables can be made without expensive or specialty tools and will jazz up your home or office in no time! I’ve built many tables and desks using these exact same processes.

This tutorial will explain how to make a concrete table top for any sized table you’d like to build. The actual base will not be explained, but full instructions to build it can be found on a Ana-White’s amazing DIY website. I modified her plans by adding to the overall dimensions and removing the wood top.

Project Level: Intermediate

Tools Needed:

Orbital Sander – Dewalt makes a great orbital sander for around $50.
Drill – I use a Dewalt Drill
Circular Saw
Table Saw – Optional (can use a circular saw instead)
Small Shovel (To mix Concrete)
Bolt Cutters (To cut wire re-enforcement)
Concrete Trowel – $10
Flathead screwdriver or chisel
Sanding Block with 100 Grit sandpaper (or a diamond pad).


  • 1 to 2 bags of concrete (depending on size of table) – I use a mix available at stores like Home Depot or Lowes ($5/bag) SAKRETE or QUIKRETE 5000 work great.
  • Portland cement – You may have to buy a full bag for $10.00. It will last for a long time as you only need a pint or so per table.
  • Wire Mesh – Pictured to right of concrete  (Available in 4×8 Sheets) – $8.00 – You can also use Diamond Mesh
  • Melamine wood – (Will cut to the size you want your table. You’ll cut strips to use on the sides of the mold as well. Available in 4×8 Sheets or smaller project size pieces. I like to use the 2 foot by 4 foot pieces for coffee tables.
  • Rubber gloves
  • Painters tape
  • 100% Silicon Caulk
  • A couple plastic cups to mix cement paste
  • Tub to Mix Concrete in – (You can also use a big 5 gallon bucket)
  • 1 5/8″ Drywall Screws to attach sides of mold
  • 120 and 220 grit sandpaper for orbital sander
Concrete Mix for Concrete Tables

Concrete Mix for Tables

Wire Mesh for Concrete Table

Wire Re-enforcement

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Concrete Tub to mix Concrete

Tub to mix Concrete

Melanine for Making Concrete Table Molds

Melamine for Making Concrete Table Molds

How to make a concrete table

1. Determine the size of table you’d like to make.

The buffet table I made is 17″wide by 52″ long by 1.5″ thick. Here is a diagram showing how I made the mold.


2. Cut the bottom of the mold out of melamine using a circular saw

This piece should be the exact width and length you’d like the concrete table to be.

3. Cut the strips that will border the bottom piece

If you want a 1.5″ thick concrete slab, add 3/4″ to the strips so they are 2.25″ tall. This accommodates for the bottom of the mold.

Mold Pieces Cut

Mold Pieces Cut

4. Assemble the sides of the mold.

Attach using 1 5/8 inch black drywall screws about every 8-12 inches. Drill a pilot hole to help it go in easier. Make sure to drill in from the side as evenly as possible.


5. Complete the mold

Once assembled, the mold will look like the photo below. You will now have a structure which concrete can be poured in. Note — the actual top of your concrete table will be very smooth because it will cure against the smooth and flat melamine surfaces. The part that you screed and trowel later on will actually be the bottom side. You will flip the mold once the project has cured.


6. Caulk the creases in your mold.

In the video I use a squeeze tube of 100% silicon caulk. You can also use a caulk gun. Then run a caulk tool to smooth it out. You can also use painters tape to get an even caulk line as pictured below.


7. Once caulked, use your finger to smooth out the bead.

Have paper towels around to clean off your hands when finished! As soon as you are finished pull the tape off while the caulk is still wet. Use a paper towel to remove any caulk that accidentally gets on other parts of the mold. Let cure for a few hours.


8. Cut Re-enforcement

Once the caulk has cured, go ahead and cut the re-enforcement to size using a bolt cutter. If your table is 52″ long by 17″ in width, cut the metal wiring to about 50″ by 15″. It will leave about an inch of play on each side. Then use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to thoroughly clean the mold, making sure all sawdust and particles are out of the mold.


9. Mix Concrete

It’s time to mix up the concrete.  Follow the directs on the bag to see how much water they recommend adding. I like to pour some water into the tub prior to the concrete to minimize dust. Wear a dust mask for this process because the particles are not good to breathe. Mix 1 or 2 bags of concrete at a time. To stir up the concrete use a small shovel or garden hoe. I like to mix it to a peanut butter consistency. If it is too dry add a little more water at a time. If too much is added, put in a little more concrete mix.

*Now is the time to add liquid or powder coloring to the mix if you’d like. Another way to add color is by using concrete acid stain after the project has cured.



10. Pack Concrete

Take a handful of concrete (wearing your rubber gloves of course), and start packing the concrete into the mold. *Don’t forget to make sure your work table is as level as possible prior to packing the concrete.


11. Add Re-enforcement

Once the mold is filled up a little more than half way you’ll want to add the re-enforcement. Simply put the re-enforcement in place and then finish packing the rest of the mold with concrete.


12. Fill and screed

Fill the mold with concrete until it is full. Take an old 2×4 or straight piece of wood and screed off the excess to level out the concrete. Move the 2×4 in a sawing motion. Continue back and forth across the entire mold (multiple times) and fill in any low spots with extra concrete. Check that your work table is still level. You can always shim if needed. A level work table will make sure your concrete table is an even thickness throughout.


13. Vibrate the Concrete / smooth with trowel

Once you’ve finished leveling out the concrete lift your work table slightly up and down to vibrate the concrete. Vibrating the concrete will help minimize the number of air bubbles in your finished piece. This is a very important step. Another way to help vibrate the piece is to hit the bottom side of the table (underneath your piece) with a rubber mallet or hammer. Then use the hammer (or an orbital sander ) to vibrate the air bubbles out from the sides (tap the sides with the hammer). Finally, use a basic concrete trowel to smooth the concrete. The part you trowel will actually be the bottom of the concrete tabletop. You want the bottom side to be flat so it rests on your table base.


14. Sit back and relax – Wait 3 to 4 days – Have a cold one!

Now it’s time to sit back and relax. Let the concrete piece cure for a good 3 to 4 days before removing it from the mold. Cheers!

pete sveen - how to make a concrete table

Taking a break out on the deck near Bozeman, Montana

Part 2

15. Remove concrete from the mold

Remove all the drywall screws. Next, take a chisel and slowly pry the wood side away from the concrete. Make sure not to let the chisel (or flathead screwdriver ) touch the concrete.



Use a sanding block to soften the edges. Make sure to work from the corners and not into them. In the photo below, you’d start the sanding block at the corner and move to the left. This prevents blowing out the corner. Run the block lightly around all bottom edges. (It will only take a couple minutes.)


16. Flip the concrete and remove top of mold

Slowly flip the concrete. It helps to have two people. I like to take a few shop rags or foam to put under the concrete so when it is flipped vertically there is something for it to rest softly on. Continue flipping the piece and rest it on a few spare boards. Resting it on boards that are evenly spaced will allow the piece to dry thoroughly.

Flip vertically onto rags or foam

Flip vertically onto rags or foam.

Remove top of the mold.


Fresh out of the mold. Admire it!


 17. Sand concrete

Use an orbital sander to smooth the piece. You will expose a few more bug holes but that is okay. Run the sander on the sides and corners as well. The top edges will be pretty rough. You’ll fill in the rough area with portland cement after this process.


18. Fill bug holes and smooth edges with cement paste

Mix portland cement (not normal concrete mix) with water until it is a toothpaste consistency. You could mix the cement with a concrete fortifier to help it bond as well, but is not necessary. Rub the paste into the bugholes using a circular motion. Fill any other areas with the paste as needed. To fill the rough edges in put some paste in the bridge between your thumb and index finger. Slide along the edge as shown below. After filling the holes use a plastic putty spatula to remove excess paste. Let sit for 1 to 2 hours and then do a final sanding.


19. Final Sanding

Use 120 and the 220 grit sandpaper to remove extra paste and to give the table top a smooth finish. Round over the edges as well.


20.  Apply Sealer

Use a clean rag and get any remaining dust off the concrete. Next, find a new rag and use it to apply a stone or concrete sealer. These can be found at a local hardware store. Read the instructions to find out the best way to apply the sealer. Once the sealer drys I like to wax the piece. It adds an extra layer of protection and shines the piece up a bit. The paste wax I use is Johnson’s Paste Wax and can be found in the wood stain section at the hardware store.


Apply the wax in a circular motion. Then buff it with a clean microfiber rag or terry cloth. It will be smooth and shiny!


21. Set the concrete piece onto your base. If needed, feel free to run a thick bead of 100% silicon caulk around the top of base so the concrete piece doesn’t shift. I’d recommend using caulk on a coffee table because your feet pushing against it will shift the concrete. On a buffet table you could go with or without.


Nice rounded edges

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Smooth finish

Building a base

The base I built for this particular concrete top was designed by Ana-White. She has an amazing blog with all sorts of furniture projects. I modified the plans to fit this table. To see the design I was inspired by click here. Ana has detailed plans for the truss table project. My version is even featured on her site at




In a future post I will talk about other finishing methods. Below is a photo of what a table looks like if you grind it using a wet polisher and expose the aggregate (rocks/sand). It can be a neat effect as well, but requires a special polisher found here.


Please comment below if you have questions or have other tips to share. Good luck!

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  • Premo

    Would this technique be suitable for the base of a BBQ? I mean heat resistant?


      This would be heat resistant enough for a barbecue. If you do plan to put a heavy barbecue on concrete, be sure the the concrete is evenly and sturdily supported or it will be prone to cracking.

  • Curt Allen

    Hi Pete,
    When referencing the importance of vibration, how long do you need to vibrate a piece that is 42″ x 70″? Example…would it be a combination of rubber mallet hammering for 5 minutes with some orbital sander for 5 minutes?


      Hey Curt, I would say anywhere from 2 to 5 minutes of vibration should take care of any bubbles. Make sure that you are able to get all sides evenly. As you make more concrete tops you will get a feel for how much is necessary to get a smooth top. Cheers!

  • Steve

    Hi Pete. Followed your instructions to make a salon table with wood inlay, and works perfectly. Only thing i did change was i used a Hammer Drill (i don’t know what its called in english) a drill with a hammer function. Put in a stone hammer and used it against the frame with an extra piece of wood against the frame and drilled all four sides 2 times and drilled the bubbles out. The top of the table was super smooth when i removed the wood. Maybe a tip 🙂
    Still have to do the base and epoxy coating but its getting there. cheers.. Steve


      Hey Steve! Thanks for sharing and great work! Did you leave a bit or anything in the hammer drill? Or did you simply hold the tool right against the boards? Cheers!

  • Eddie Robinson

    Hi Pete,
    I want to make a 3’6″‘ x 7’ concrete table with a trapezoid shaped base. I prefer a style more along the idea of minimalism. With that said my main concern would be the structure of the table. Will the design I drafted work? Can I complete this build without the use of cross bracing?


      Hi Eddie! I think that design looks really cool. I would not use it for a concrete piece this size though. I used 4×4’s for mine and additional bracing. If you want a design as similar to this as possible you could definitely do something similar out of steel. That way you’d be plenty strong. If doing with wood you’d want to use thicker boards and additional bracing.

  • Gene Brotherton

    Hey Pete was wondering how you put the concrete top on the stand. Also can you use a router to make better beveled edges.

  • Jeff Fulford

    Hi Pete

    When mixing the cement paste to fill the bug holes, what would be the best way to match the coloring
    (liquid) I added to the concrete mix, since the quantity of the paste would be a lot less?



      Hi Jeff,
      The best way to match the color is to try to get the same proportion of mix to coloring liquid as in the main concrete piece. Also, it is best to do a test area and see if the color matches well and then adjust from there.


  • Zach Cave

    I am wanting to build a 4×8 tabletop. But if my calculations are correct, at 1.5″ thick, it would be around 550 lbs just the tabletop. I want this to be a hightop table aswell, havent decided how high yet. But my concerns are the weight of the top, and bracing to support the weight and any swaying it might do, due to it being a high table.

    Would love to lighten the load of the table but havent found anything. Any suggestions?


      Zach, It will be difficult to go any thinner than 1.5″ and still have a strong tabletop. It will be possible to build a strong base that holds the weight of the table but if will need to be very sturdy. It will need to have cross supports directly under the tabletop and lower to the ground to make a super solid table base. I suggest looking around at various designs for larger concrete tables and finding inspiration and tips from those. My most recent concrete table build may help:

      Hope this helps, Cheers!

  • Patrick Roy

    Hi Pete,

    Looking to do a table top supported by a plywood and 2×3 structure to reduce weight.

    Using Quikrete 5000 is not recommended for any usage under 2” thick. I am also concerned that the lips, which would have no bottom support as they will be overhanging all around, will collapse.

    The mold will be poured upside down, as you did here, with the addition of filling the center with the structure before drying. Space for wire mesh will also be very limited.

    Any input on that?

    Thanks in Advance.

    • Patrick Roy

      Made a mistake in the composition text: the plywood and structure would be 1” smaller than the total table top surface, not the concrete. Additional info is that the full table would be 72”x38”.

      Also, thanks for this tutorial, very helpful.

      • Hi Roy! I actually use Quikrete 5000 quite frequently for 1 1/2 inch projects — it’s pretty common. I do know the bag says that though. Here is a video that might help showing how I generally build the lips:

        • Patrick Roy

          Thanks for your quick reply. Now, I am thinkinbg about actually pouring the concret over a sheet of plywood to keep it to 1/2”.

          I remember that you had already done a video pouring concrete over an outside round table. Can’t find it back…

          Will that plywood absorb all of the concrete water content?

          • Patrick Roy

            Things is that I want it between 2 and 3 inches thick, which would make it way to heavy even if I knockout 1.5”. 1.5” thick for this size equate to 360 pounds, let alone 3 inches thick.

            Filling it with two 3/4” thick plywood and pouring only 1/2” of concrete would bring it down to a friendly 255lbs including the plywoods.

        • Gerrit

          Pete, any particular reason you used foam in the interior, and not say the same coated wood?

          • DIYPETE

            Gerrit, It is a good idea to use foam because it is much easier to remove. if you used a board it could pretty easily get stuck and you might damage the concrete trying to remove it. Whereas with foam you can just tear it out of the concrete once it is cured.


            • Gerrit

              What sealer do you use? I know you mention water based stone or concrete, but all I see at Lowe’s is 1gl Cure n Seal.

  • Matt Merry

    Hey Pete. Thanks for the easy to understand tutorial. I plan on building a large concrete table top to put on a wooden frame for my garage office. If I’m going to be using this table for my desk and sometimes for dinners and stuff, how much unsupported overhang would be safe for a 1-1/2″ thick slab before I would have to worry about it chipping off or cracking?

    • Hey Matt! I generally use brackets or have plywood or something to help with it underneath if greater then an 8 inch or so overhang.

  • Mia Huddleston

    Hi. I am going to attempt this project for a patio table. Pretty big. 4×8. Question is about the base, what do you recommend? Thinking 4x4s but how many? I pressume with the weight will be about 500lbs and concerned only 4 posts wont be enough. Thank you


      Hi Mia! at 1 1/2 inches thick it would be around 15-18 lbs per sq foot. SO that is quite a heavy table. 4×4’s at each corner and 2×4’s at the top as well as lower supports would be needed at the very least. An addition 2 legs in the center are not a bad idea. — Otherwise, you might look at incorporating some metal for additional support.

  • Michael Beaudoin

    Thanks for this tutorial! Question – when I went to sand the top of the table it was brittle – to the point where I can rub my finger on the concrete and it starts to lightly crumble. I’m not having this issue with the bottom or sides. Any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks!


      Hey Michael! Hope all is well. After flipping the concrete, I like to let it sit awhile before sanding so it continues to cure. Curing times really vary depending on a number of variables. If it’s acting that way I’d let it sit a day or two prior to sanding.

  • Caroline O’Boyle

    Hi, Pete. I want to make a 3′ x 6′ table as the base for a farm sink that I will use outside in my garden. I’m figuring I can attach an inner frame to the malamine to create an opening in the concrete slab for the sink. Any tips or suggestions? The sink itself is very heavy…Do you think the concrete will be strong enough to support it?


      Hey Caroline! I have done farmhouse sinks in concrete counters before. As long as the concrete is supported well with it’s base you should be fine. ( and use rebar in front and behind the sink in the concrete. — I’ve done knockouts out of melamine — but I typically use high density foam — and wrap it with tape so it releases with ease. The big thing is cutting the foam well and then sanding it. However, if the knockout just meeds to be square — and if you can make an inner frame with melamine — go for it 🙂 Cheers!

      • Caroline O’Boyle

        Thanks for the tips! I’m excited to get started. Will send pictures when I’m done!

  • Micah Shanks

    Hi Pete and community! I am going to try making a coffee table out of concrete, using your tutorial. I would like to make the table around 2 inches thick. I want to use raw steel hairpin legs. Would they be strong enough? If so, how would you suggest that I connect them? Can I just drill them directly into the concrete? Should I use more reinforcement than you have shown in the table?


      Hi Micah! At 2 inches thick the concrete will be roughly 20-24 pounds per square foot. I haven’t seen the hairpin legs — but I would say you’d want to maybe find someone who can take a look at them to see what they think. To attach to concrete —I generally recommend using anchor bolts during the pouring process ( similar to how Ben does it ) — for re-enforcement on 2″ tables — recommend adding a little 3/8″ re-bar ( similar to this project ) –

  • Patrick K. Rhodes

    I’m looking to build a couple of these tables for our church. One question is the concrete top strong enough that you use concrete screws to secure the legs/base to the top? Or does the top just sit on the base? Thanks for your help.


      Hey Patrick! I typically recommend against screws to secure it. Using some 100% silicon is what I prefer.

      • Patrick K. Rhodes

        Thanks for the reply. I’m actually in process of building it now and already bought all my supplies. I ended up buying Liquid Nails heavy duty extreme in the tube. Will that be okay to secure it to the base

        • DIYPETE

          Hey Patrick! It will work for sure in making a good connection. It won’t break away from the base easily if it needs to be removed, but as long as that isn’t a big deal then I’d say go for it!

          • Patrick K. Rhodes

            Thanks a ton for taking time to reply. I will update when I’m done. Making this for the church to get rid of some wobbly ikea tables. Here is a picture what I’m going for, but it will be bar height and width of 31 inches to fit through doors. Also wI’ll have wheels on legs to be easily moved around church to different rooms.

            • Patrick K. Rhodes

              One last question. Lowes only had one type of 6 inch screws. They look really fat! Could you tell me what size/thickness screws you use for securing the 4×4 legs/base together. These say they replace lag bolts.

              • DIYPETE

                Hey Patrick! What a great project to build for your church. That’s awesome. I use T-25 #10 x 6 inch screws — they are at my local builders supply store and can’t really find them at Lowes or Home Depot. — It definitely won’t hurt to use some larger bolts or the lag screws like you’ve found. Make sure to use would glue as well. ( Always pre-drill as well)

  • Chris Drew

    Hi pete I am following your steps, and I just removed it from the mold. The edges around the mold seem dry. Is this ok?

    • jacqueline sinfuego

      Hi Guys, we are making concrete tops, we have facilities and skilled personnel doing it. Maybe, you are interested, please contact me… Thanks!


      Hey Chris, they do look a bit dry. You will be able to use a slurry mixture to fill in the voids though and it will be ok. Let m know how it goes / went. Cheers

  • Chris Drew

    Hi pete I am following your steps, and I just removed it from the mold. The edges around the mold seem dry. Is this ok?

  • Douglas

    This is a coffee table that I built. The wood base was built from scratch using plans from the Ana-White website, with some variations for my particular project.

    I made the concrete top before even reading your tutorial, but pretty much did everything exactly how you described, with a few minor exceptions.

    I added a couple slices of cedar, which were cut from a piece we brought back from our honeymoon in Tennessee. The letter “P” is for our last name, and is filled with broken glass, and then covered in casting epoxy, which I got from a local arts & crafts store. I’m thinking about trying this again on a different piece, but using some marine epoxy….not sure how that’ll turn out but we’ll see!


      I love this, it turned out beautiful Douglas. Thanks for sharing!

  • Jack Smith

    Hey Pete, I’m about to make a table top with a slab of wood encased in the center. I was just wanting to know if a concrete sealer will be okay to also use on the wood as well, thanks!


      Hey Jack! I typically like to use a sealer made for wood still on the embedded slab. The waterbased concrete sealer doesn’t make the wood pop as much as the oil based I typically use on wood. That’s just what I prefer though. Can’t wait to see your project!

    • Christine

      Hi Jack – I am about to do very much the same thing (figured maple ambrosia slab surrounded by concrete), and have been trying to figure out what to use to seal and finish the wood and concrete. What did you end up using? I have read that Minwax finishing paste could be used on both surfaces…

  • Beautiful, a lovely post on Diy on Concrete table for beginners. But I think you must need extra one or two people towards to middle of the process to help you. But thanks for sharing this piece with us. There are some great precision has mentioned in the above post.


      Thanks Dayna! Yep, extra hands in the shop are always nice to have 🙂

  • Richard Ŧ Messer

    Hey Pete!
    I’m about to dive in on making a desk out of pipe fittings for the base and a concrete top. A little concerned with weight if I make it 2″ thick. I’m planning on roughly 5′ x 2.5′ at 2inches thick. Based on a quick concrete calculator I found, that’s roughly 270 lbs! I don’t doubt that my base will hold it, but I’d love your opinion (see pic). Should I add four more support flanges to hold the top?
    I’m also curious into looking into an apron option. 1 or 1.5 inches throughout, with the edges bumped up to two inches for looks. How would I go about this? Not sure how to pour the concrete, and then pour more only on the edges. Any insight would be helpful!


      Hi Richard! Here is a video I made showing how to create an apron to help give it a bold look but with a little less weight. — As for your base — I wood definitely say it is solid enough. The one thing I would think about is weight distribution. Ideally, you’ll want to support it more evenly then just in the four corners. Love the design though!

      • Richard Ŧ Messer

        Thanks for getting back with me! I wound up coming up with a new design that got rid of the shelving bays. I also added flanges and incorporated diagonal supports, which I think will distribute the load better. Let me know what you think!

        I’m going to go with 2″ for the concrete top, which I think will be safe. Thoughts? I enjoyed the video, but I think the apron idea is only worth it if you go pretty thick. I don’t think 2″ will require that much work!

        • DIYPETE

          Hey Richard! I think this is going to be awesome, and the 2″ will work well. Can’t wait to see it!

  • teachkids2succeed

    How do you prevent those rough edges? Can they be prevented when you sand the edges after removing it from the mold?


      Hi! Vibrating the concrete as best as possible will be a big part of it. If you are referring just to the edges and not the entire side —- sanding and then filling the void will help. Wet polishing is another good option.

    • Charlie Potter

      use a release oil on the mould a fine coat or you’ll darken the crete

  • mortenbrendefur

    Hello 🙂
    I so much enjoyed your video, being a handy guy myself, this will not be too difficult 🙂
    I would, however, like to build myself a sturdy tabletop (or actually 5-6 of them) cover with tiles, keep one and give away some to friends.
    I bought myself a steel sheet to use as a base, just need to weld supports and make it into a nice work table first.
    This steel will then be covered with plastic and I will put down a frame made of iron/steel for this (reuseable). I suppose I can give the frame a coat of polyurethane and wax so that the concrete mix will not stick to it.
    Inside the table, I will also add 4-8 sturdy iron plates (premade with screw holes) so that I easily can attach a steelframe for extra support and 4 legs.
    I wonder though. I live in Thailand. Concrete/cement powder is easy to get hold of, but not ready made mixtures in any kind.
    They sell Blue bags, green bags and red bags. The blue seem to be a slow curing, but very strong one, so I suppose I could use this one together with nice sand (mix 1/3) and possibly small macadam/stones. I suppose curing for 6 days before removing from the mold, and then put aside and let it wet-cure for another 2-3 weeks before further work is done on it/them.
    As I plan to put tiles on, I don’t think a curing agent on top is a good idea.
    And… for the main question.
    How about lining up the tiles on the bottom of the mold. Put some rope or rubber (4-5 mm thick) between the tiles and around the tiles, put in some plastic sheets around all the tiles in the height of the tiles and say 4-6 inches wide to make a frame of wood, copper or something else around the tiles later.
    Fill the mold with concrete mix, and no work later in order to glue the tiles on.
    Plastic sheets and the rope between, or rubber band between the tiles are removed, and the gap is filled with chalking of desire.
    What do you think of my project description? If you see any flaws, or have any tips, then I would really be grateful. Can upload a picture when I get started 🙂

  • Chen Zelig

    Hi Pete. Very usefull tutorial. I want to ask how you get the top of the table so smooth? I fill the gaps as you say and there is a differnt colors and not smooth areas on my top part table.. I sow somewhere that it recommended to use a roller like they use in painting walls. What do you say?
    Thanks a lot, chen


      Hi Chen! Vibrating the table as best as possible is real important. For filling holes, make the slurry mixture. For larger voids mix in a little sand so you have some aggregate in the mixture. The fill will be a slightly different color as it is hard to get a 100% match. However, If you wet polish it does a better job matching up (especially if their is a bit of sand in the slurry). Sometimes it takes a few passes of slurry to build it up so it is perfectly flush. I am not sure I’ve seen the roller method before. Let me know if that helps. Cheers!

  • Mike McGinn

    Hey Pete – great tutorial on building a concrete tabletop. I’m about to embark on one myself and this was really helpful. I’m building a top for an existing table I built 20 years ago. It’s a great way to add a modern finish to a timeless base. I’d like to have a 2-3″ side on my tabletop so the edges of the concrete drop down around the existing table. My thought is to follow your directions and right after adding the wire mesh, also lay a pre-built melamine frame around the wire mesh 1″ in from the mold. Then I’d pack concrete in between the main mold and the inside frame to form the edge. Do you think this would work? Any suggestions or steps I’m missing? I also have a question about how strong the final product is when your moving it inside and onto the base. I have a fear of putting all the work in and then cracking it in half moving inside the house! Thanks for your help and advise! -Mike

  • Mike McGinn

    Hey Pete – great tutorial on building a concrete tabletop. I’m about to embark on one myself and this was really helpful. I’m building a top for an existing table I built 20 years ago. It’s a great way to add a modern finish to a timeless base. I’d like to have a 2-3″ side on my tabletop so the edges of the concrete drop down around the existing table. My thought is to follow your directions and right after adding the wire mesh, also lay a pre-built melamine frame around the wire mesh 1″ in from the mold. Then I’d pack concrete in between the main mold and the inside frame to form the edge. Do you think this would work? Any suggestions or steps I’m missing? I also have a question about how strong the final product is when your moving it inside and onto the base. I have a fear of putting all the work in and then cracking it in half moving inside the house! Thanks for your help and advice! -Mike

  • Hi Pete! how would you go about creating a round mold for this project?

  • David Mackenzie

    Pete (or anyone), I want to make 10′ long concrete dining table but of course melamine only comes in 8′ long sheets. Any tips on how to build a 10′ long form and hide the resulting seam so the table top still looks good?


      Hey David! Just in case you didn’t find my dining table video here is the link. — But to answer your question — I have done pieces that have required multiple boards. It’s important to start with a very flat surface to work on so both sheets of melamine are completely even. Something you can do is use pocket holes from the underside to help secure the boards super tight to each other. (and the sidewalls will keep it together as well. Sometimes people will use something link bondo over the crack and sand it smooth / seal. What I do is basically butt both pieces together on a flat surface – tie them together with the sidewalls, and then add a thin piece of clear shipping tape over the seem. — Note that the concrete will slightly show where the taped seam is since it will replicate everything it is poured against. However, if you are planning to wet polish the top using a wet polisher ( ) it will get rid of the seam easily and quickly. If you are using a normal orbital sander it may or may not come out completely — (could be noticeable). Let me know if that helps.

      • How much does the table top weigh?

  • flamingoezz

    have you built anything from concrete that isn’t just one surface? I’m thinking of making a small table where the legs are concrete too — all one piece. It’ll be a simple ‘C’ shape design

    i was wondering if countertop mix or sakrete 5000 will hold up to that or whether the weight of the top will lead to it not holding up well.

    also, do you mix the portland in with your concrete mix or just use it to fill holes? Thanks!!


      Hi! I’ve used regular 5000 psi mixes for other projects. Here is one example: — You could do something similar — but flip it so the top is used as the tabletop surface. Adding in some fiber re-enforcement (can find on amazon) at the corners isn’t a bad idea. I just use portland mix for the holes typically. Hope that helps. Take care!

      • flamingoezz

        Thanks pete!! thats exactly what i’m looking to create…but upside down, and a bit larger.

        have you used mesh in the corners before? would that help it support the weight? I read that the mesh fibers may show through to the surface of your concrete, which wouldn’t be ideal.

  • Micha Ertel

    Hey Pete my husband built us a table top and it is amazing !! Thank you for sharing this. I do have a couple of questions….. we would like spray it with a dye that we seen at home depot made by Behr. The guy at home depot told us to apply and etcher first to make it porous for the dye. What is your opinion on this? What order should we do these steps in if we go with a dye. Sand, Etcher, Dye…? Help :/


      Hi Micha! So glad it turned out great 🙂 — What type is this dye? (waterbased, acid, etc?) So you basically are not wanting the natural grey color and would like to change the color? Has it been sealed yet? Let me know and I’ll advise. I know about every concrete product they carry, so I’m curious which you are looking at. Thanks!

      • Micha Ertel

        Hey Pete it is Behr Premium Concrete Dye and it is water based. I don’t have to change the grey color I was just considering it as a possibility. The table will be used for the outdoors. It has not been sealed only sanded and filled the holes with the portland cement and then sanded again and cleaned with water. Thanks.

        • DIYPETE

          Hi Micha, I haven’t personally used this dye. If you have any test pieces of concrete that you poured it would be nice to experiment with the stain a bit before doing the larger piece. My biggest concern is the etcher being strong and changing the texture of the surface. As long as it doesn’t take away the nice smooth surface than feel free to try it. I know a number of folks who’ve used non-acid based stains on tables with success.

          • Micha Ertel

            Thanks Pete ! I guess my biggest concern is will the newly poured concrete absorb the stain, (it is 2 weeks old) and I guess the only way to figure that out is give it a try and a test spot. I wish I would have watched more of your videos and then I would have known to add the dye during the mixing of the concrete :/ Oh well, we will give it a shot and let you know how it goes so you have some future reference. Maybe post a picture if it turns out fabulous !!

            • DIYPETE

              Hi Micha! I’ve had pretty good luck with concrete taking dyes fine — even on newer concrete that hasn’t waited the typically recommended 28 days. I always acid stain just a few days after pulling it out of the mold. Takes the stain just fine. Good luck, let me know how it goes, and I can’t wait to see some photos! ( — I know the bottom of the concrete isn’t as smooth — but you could always do a test spot on that as well) Take care!

  • Robert Trew

    Hi Pete really like the stuff you make, how would you connect the concrete top to the base?

  • Stacy Purves Jackson

    Hi Pete- Your tutorials are fantastic and I am excited to get started! I am looking to build a 4×4 coffee table top and wondered if you would recommend the knockout approach you used on your bar top for something that size in order to limit the weight. Just looking for clarity on when to use a knockout and when to avoid it.


      Thanks Stacy! The knockout is a great solution to limit weight when you want the top to appear real thick. Say you want it to look 3 inches thick for a bold look. — Then you’d use a knockout to decrease weight and materials cost. —However, you can do this using the reverse cast technique as well. I made a diagram for you to sort of show you how you’d do that. The pink is the foam — and it is fastened to the outside of the mold with screws. Let me know if that helps. Cheers! – Pete

      • Stacy Purves Jackson

        You are the hero the DIY community deserves! Thanks so much!

        • DIYPETE

          Hey Stacy! Thanks so much for your support and for watching the tutorials and taking action on projects. Keep up the good work, and I can’t wait to see the concrete project you create! – Pete

          • Kimberly Stewart

            Hi Pete, we are working on making an outdoor dining table with the concrete top about 66”x40” and I would like to cut back on the weight so I am trying to follow this feed but am a little confused on what material to use and how to use it, can you please give me a little more explanation?

            • diypete

              Hi Kimberly, The thinnest I would recommend doing a slab is 1 1/2 inches. However, if you want the piece to look thicker — You can use a technique where you basically have a 3 inch apron around the perimeter. I explain the process in this video Let me know if this helps. Cheers!

        • DIYPETE


    • Hey Stacy! So I wanted to let you know I made a video to help answer your questions. Here is the link showing the exact process ( for a 4×3 coffee table ) – Cheers!

      • Stacy Purves Jackson

        I’m starting my project on Thursday so your timing is fantastic! Your original instructions were great but this video gives me a whole new level of confidence!

        • DIYPETE

          Great! Good luck Stacy! Can’t wait to here how it turns out. Cheers

  • Adam Hirsh

    Great tutorial!

    I am looking to use a chisel on the edges of the concrete to give it a rough unfinished look. Would you recommend I do this before or after I use a sealer?

    Thanks for your help!

    • Hey Adam! I’d do the chisel edge prior to sealing. — I usually do a chisel edge using a silicon mold to give the effect. Just be real careful if using a chisel and take your time.

      • Adam Hirsh

        Awesome- thanks a lot!

  • Zacnaud

    I followed the instructions, thanks for the great DIY!!

    I used the same cement mix, and got portland cement, for the bug holes, but it does not seem to to match the cement at all, and turns a browninsh color when wet. How do you get tje portland cement to match? Does it just match once you seal it?

    • That’s awesome! The portland will generally match pretty well if you are using grey, but you will still notice where voids are because it will have a different finish. Not sure why there is a brownish color. How did the final project turn out? I’d love to see a photo and see if I can provide any other answers for ya!

  • Peter Tang

    Glad i found this as the wife saw a concrete table and benches at a local Bunnings in Australia and they wanted $1700 for the table and $700 for each bench. I was wondering about the strength of the bench vs weight. Bench im looking at building is approx 100x300x78cm would you do anything to reduce weight

    • Hey Peter! That’s awesome you are thinking about building a concrete project. That is a pretty large table. You’ll definitely want to build a very solid base, as this will weigh about 18 lbs per square foot / 8.16 kilograms or so at 1 and 1/2 inches thick or 3.81 cm. You’ll need heavy duty wood or metal for the project. Cheers!

  • Tobi-Wan

    I was on the look out for tips on large scale resin casting, when I came across this. Do you think this technique would work with resin, also?

    • Hi Toby! I haven’t done much resin casting, — but the melamine is waterproof and I’d imagine it would pull away easily from the resin. It would be fun to try it out small scale as an experiment to see if it would work!

  • Ebony Shawcross

    Thanks for the tutorial! We made a table with succulent planter cut out in the middle 🙂 We filled the bug holes with glass adhesive to maintain the ‘character’ but enhance practicality. thanks so much!


      Ebony, thanks for reaching out and sharing your finished project, here! I love the knockout in the middle for a planter, thats a great idea! Keep up the amazing work and Cheers from Montana!

  • Nick

    Hi Pete – thanks from Denmark for some excellent DIY guides, great inspiration!

    I want to build a concrete table for my girlfriend, as we just moved to our newly build house… I’m unsure about the weight of the table because it will end up in some pretty large dimensions (100×32) inches. How thick do you think i should make it for the table not to break – that’s my biggest concern…



      Hey Nick, thanks for reaching out all the way from Denmark! That is going to be a large table, wow! For something that big I would recommend you making the thickness of the table at least 1 3/4″, a 2″ table would be ideal. Best of luck, my friend! Cheers

  • Louise Mustard

    Hi Pete, I’m in the UK and hoping to give this a try but it is December and quite cold here. Not sure if this is a dumb questions but will the cold affect how the concrete sets? Thanks, Louise


      Hey Louise thanks for reaching out! Thats honestly a great question and the cold will affect the concrete’s curing time mainly, it will just take a lot longer to cure completely. Do you have any little space heaters you can put in the room you’d be pouring the concrete in? We run into this issue here in the states in Montana too! A space heater will add just the heat you’ll need. Best of luck!

  • LevyR

    This is a really cool concrete table design. I like the idea of having multiple materials in one piece of furniture. The combination of the concrete countertop with the wooden legs is really cool. I would love to try to make one of these, but I would need some help with the concrete though.

  • winter wallace

    Hi Pete,

    This is the best tutorial. So thankful and glad you posted it. If I wanted to add two flat sides to this as legs for a coffee table would I just make 1 mold so it’s one piece or do the legs have to be separate?

    I attached a photo of what I’m trying to make. I’m wondering if I can use your tutorial but extend the metal reinforcement and bend it. I don’t know!!!


      Thanks for reaching out! I would do this all as one piece, yes. Not to say you couldn’t do it separately, but it then just adds more steps for securing the parts together, etc. You could absolutely do that – best of luck and let me know if you have any more questions!

  • Uncookie Cutter

    Hi Pete! Thank you so much for this concrete tutorial. I’d love for you to check out my new dining table I built with your help. I’ve linked back here in my post. Thank you, thank you!


      Glad I was able to help. Just browsed through your blog, looks nice! Keep it up. Cheers

      • Uncookie Cutter

        Thanks so much!

  • Medi Ogre88

    Hi Pete and greetings from down the road in Billings (Go Cats!!). Thanks for your easy to understand tutorials. I’m most definitely going to be using this technique for a coffee table top. Couple questions on it: If I was going to stain the table top, I would do that prior to sealing, yes? Also, do you have recommendations on stain type and method of application?

    2nd issue: I’m also building a new house and I want to put a concrete counter top on my kitchen island. It’s going to measure around 7 x 4 so I was thinking this method might create a very unwieldy slab. Do you have a technique for doing this in place? I have done some research and found the Z Counterforms products and techniques to be interesting albeit expensive. Have you seen or used any of these products?

    Guy A.

  • Jennifer Christopherson

    I’m planning to build a concrete table for my deck with concrete benches as well (sort of a picnic style/size… maybe a bit longer), but a few people have raised doubts as to whether a deck could support the weight of it. Do you have any thoughts on how much these things weight once all is said and done? Have you made outdoor tables before and ever had problems with them crashing though a deck?? Thanks!

  • K.

    Hey Pete–Just wanted to send a big thank you for your great tutorial! I just finished up a concrete table for my apartment, and I owe its success to you! Thanks much!

    • Hi K, thanks so much for sharing! I love the look of your table! Are those tiles you embedded in the table?? Looks great! Thanks for taking action and going for it! – Pete

      • K.

        Pete–I actually built the mold with holes in it, and those are stained pieces of engrain that are sitting on the frame and coming through the table. But your comment makes me realize it probably would have been much easier just to sit those pieces in the mold before I poured the concrete so that they would be embedded in the table without all the extra hole-making! Here’s a better picture in case it helps explain:

        Thanks again for the tutorial–can’t tell you how helpful it was!

        • Hey K! Ah, I see what you did now! Very cool 🙂 Thanks for showing me. Also, looks like you are a fan of Moscow mules by seeing those copper mugs! Cheers

  • SKL

    Pete great work! I have just picked up an aluminum table base, it is rated for 350 lbs, I would love to do a concrete top with some glass tile inlays. My question is, do you think that I can use my 40″ plastic resin table top as a form? I think that flipping it upside down and cutting off the resin leg blocks would be awesome and the right size. Would you recommend any type of release agent if this is possible?

  • Kim Rabut-Sacco

    We are going to make a round concrete table top similar to restoration hardware (54″) do you think our base would be strong enough to support the concrete? Our base isn’t done yet but this is what we are basing it off of (we are only making the base from this plan and doing a round concrete top)

    Thank you!

    • Hey Kim! Sorry for the delay. I’m sure you’ve finished with the build by now. May I asked what you used to create the circular mold? I’d love to see how it turned out! Yes, the base would be plenty strong. Have fun!

      • Kim Rabut-Sacco

        We love how it turned out! We ended up rigging a router to get a perfect circle and I found some flexible vinyl on the sides of the form.

        • Love this! Nice work Kim!

        • jacqueline sinfuego

          Hi Pete. I would like to make a concrete top with dimension 96″ L x 40″ W with 136 kg only. What do you think better way to go just to maintain/keep the weight at 136kg: use lightweight aggregate w/ re-enforcement or play with the thickness? Thanks!

          • HI Jacqueline! Sounds like a big table top 🙂 I honestly haven’t used too many mixes that would be referred to as lightweight — but it is certainly something you could look more into. As for thickness, for something this big I wouldn’t really recommend going much thinner than 1 1/2 inches. While I’ve done 1 inch thick tops for small nightstands before — I wouldn’t recommend it for a table of this size. Let me know how it goes!

        • That’s beautiful Kim! Thanks so much for taking the time to share the project photos 🙂

  • Larry Plant

    Hi Pete. I was wondering if I could add small pieces of broken glass from beer bottles (just enough for an accent) to the concrete? Will it affect the sanding process or strength of the table. I think the glass would add a great contrast to the table.

    • Hey Larry! You certainly can! The smaller the better. If larger pieces are at the surface you just want small fractions of them showing so they act as aggregate in the concrete and so you still get a super smooth finish. I’d recommend using a wet polisher if you do need to achieve a super smooth finish when using glass. I haven’t used a regular sander when embedding glass so I’m not 100% sure how it would work. You might try a little test piece as an experiment 🙂

  • James

    Hi Pete,

    Just wanted to say thanks for the tutorial, it was really helpful for my first foray into concrete work. Also wanted to share the final product. The desk is 7′ wide by 32″ deep. The only thing I would do differently if I were doing it over again, would be more careful on the silicone edges. I built it up a bit thick, so when i removed the tape there was a slight seam showing. Obviously this translated into the concrete, and required a bit more sanding than I wanted to do in order to not expose too much aggregate. Also, I poured these with the formwork on the ground, as I did not have a table capable of holding the large slab, and i wasnt able to vibrate the larger piece as much as i would have wanted to so there is a bit more pocketing than i was hoping for, but because i didnt sand it much at all it really turned out pretty smooth.

    Thanks for the help!

    Edit: not sure why, but the pictures are auto-rotating sideways.

    • Hi James! Thanks so much for sharing the photos an it’s fun to see the desk. Turned out great and what you learned from this project will make your next even better. — And if the voids bother you feel free to mix up a little cement slurry to fill them in and then seal over. Keep the projects coming! Cheers – Pete

  • Stephen Middlebrook

    Hey Pete,

    Really enjoy the blog! Already had great success building a farmhouse table for some friends. Had a quick question about the form. Have you had any luck reusing the forms? I have a couple friends who might be interested in a concrete console table and I’d like to save the melamine if possible. What’s the best way to remove the caulk and residue without damaging the surface? If you don’t have any experience doing this I’ll be happy to share the results when I experiment with it.



    • Hey Stephen! I’ve definitely re-used forms for simple tables as long as they didn’t break when removing them or have any water seep into the main base piece. I use a sharp razor blade to remove the caulk. It works awesome. I use a microfiber towel and the isopropyl alcohol to clean the residue. It’s worked great many times for me! Let me know if that helps. Congrats on the farmhouse table and best of luck with your next build! – Pete

  • Chris Zettler

    Hi Pete,

    I would like to follow your approach but wanted to see if you had any reactions or recommendations for doing so on an oval-shaped table? Mostly I am asking because I am unsure about how the sides of my mold would do while the concrete is hardening.

    This would be the first time I have made anything with concrete and I am excited about it.

    Some info:
    1 – 2″ X 72″ X 36(widest point in center)”
    2 – Will use same materials you suggested above (maybe will color it as well)
    3 – Essentially I am planing to cut the melamine base wider and longer than the target table-top size so I can attach the oval-shaped mold sides to the TOP RATHER THAN THE SIDES as as you suggested.

    4 – I am initially thinking of using something like 1″ X 2″ thick rubber/neoprene strips to form the sides of the mold. While I suspect I will need to attach it at many points to the top of the melanine base I thought I had better ask in case this would not be strong enough for a concrete mold.

    I realize that I am signing up for some slow work considering that the curved shape will make the positioning, caulking, and taping trickier than that of a straight-edged piece.

    Any thoughts on making this easier or ways to simplify the sides of the mold?

    My wife really wants an oval-shaped piece and want to make something out of concrete 🙂


    • Hey Chris!

      Sounds like quite the project 🙂 And a fun one for sure! I think rubber / neoprene strips would work well. — And to have plenty of wood blocks screwed outside of the strips down into the melamine to help support the strips and hold them in place. To be honest I wouldn’t use any tape for the caulking process. Just use a caulk tool and make sure you don’t have any excess caulk along the bottom or sides of the mold. Take your time in building the mold. I think it’s going to turn out great. You might do a smaller piece just for practice before doing the big one if you want to test out anything before creating the masterpiece 🙂 Cheers and good luck. Most importantly have fun with the build! – Pete

  • Carly

    Hi, I can see from the age of the comments this tutorial has been here a while, but I am planning on having a go at making a concrete coffee table and this tutorial is great! I am hoping to make a round coffee table and wondered if you could offer any tips on how to create the mould for a round table and what products to use to create it?

    • Hi Carly! Thanks for the kind words 🙂 There are a number of ways to do a round top. There are molds you can buy online — but I’ve used vinyl base molding in the past which can be found cheap at home depot. It’s worked well. I don’t have a specific video on it but Ben who also does diy videos has one at: — He has some awesome tutorials and is a good guy to learn from. I’ve also gone in the lawn and garden section and used edging to make forms. Let me know how the project goes!! – Pete

  • Matt

    Hi Pete,

    I was wondering if you had any tips regarding building the table top AND legs out of concrete, no wood at all. I’d like for the table to look like a capital E rotated clockwise 90 degrees and without the middle leg, and the two ends to be solid walls of concrete (make sense?). Would you mak e one big mold, or 3 separate pieces?



    • Hey Matt!

      I would make separate molds for each leg. It’s going to much easier to build the mold — and minimize issues you may have doing it all in one piece. The weight and ability to work with it will also be a plus. Let me know how the project goes. Can’t wait to see it! – Pete

  • Thanks so much for the easy to follow tutorial! My husband and I recently made a counter for our kitchen island following your instructions, adding some river rock and agate.

    I love it, but think it’s definitely too thick! What’s the rule of thumb when determining needed thickness? We’d love to do the rest of the kitchen counters with concrete.

    (More pics here: )

    • The agate looks great! Did you use a wet polisher on that or an orbital sander? — Can’t tell how thick yours is — but the majority of my mine are 1.5 inches thick. I don’t recommend going thinner. Sometimes I’ll do up to 2 1/4 inch thick but they get pretty heavy. I’ve done aprons around the perimeter so they look like they are thick from the perimeter — and then the majority of the table is only 1.5 inches. This saves on weight. Let me know if that helps. Keep up the great projects! – Pete

      • I didn’t polish or sand it at all. Three coats of glossy concrete sealer did the trick! I don’t have my tape measure on me, but it looks like 3″ thick. I think that was overkill! lol The counter I want to do for the rest of the kitchen will be 8-10′. Do you think 1.5″ thick is thick enough? I’d worry about it breaking being that big. But I bought cheap Home Depot cabinets and I bet they can’t handle much weight. Thanks for your help!

        • I do think 1.5″ is thick enough 🙂 The majority of concrete projects (including counters) I’ve done have been that thickness. And you can beef up the cabinets if needed. Cheers!

          • Awesome! Thanks! I’ll plan on that thickness when we get around to making the rest of the counters. Gotta fix the foundation and replace the subfloor first. 🙂

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  • Trey

    Hey Pete! First of all, thank you for your site & tutorials. Secondly, maybe I just missed it, but I didn’t see how you attached the concrete top to the wood base? Any advice is appreciated, thanks.


    • Hi Trey! Sometimes to prevent tables from sliding — I’ll glue wooden blocks on the concrete. That way it won’t shift, but can be removed easily for moving purposes. You could try to do this with the wood as well. Otherwise, I generally attach countertops and buffet tables with beads of silicon. Construction adhesive will wreck things if you ever try to remove them. Hope that helps! – Pete

      • Trey

        I was just planning on straight silicon, but the spacer blocks are a good idea. Thanks brother!

        • Sounds good! Let me know how it goes and post a project photo if ya have time 🙂 Cheers from Bozeman — Pete

  • Lipstickinnd

    Hi Pete – great tutorial! Thank you! My husband and I are going to make a table out of concrete. I think we are going to use GFRC though so it doesn’t get so heavy. My plan is to use steel beams for the legs and a steel bar of some kind for the frame. My concern is – how can we attach the concrete top to the steel frame when it’s completed? I’m having the frame fabricated at a steel mill so I need to think of everything I will need before it’s built. Do you have any ideas what I can use?

    • Hi! — Here is what I’ve done for metal base tables in the past. (See my response to Trey above). — You can use blocks to prevent the concrete from sliding. I glue blocks on using construction adhesive. If you want additional contact you can run a bead of silicon on the top of the steel frame as well.

      • Lipstickinnd

        Thanks Pete – I don’t know why, but I can’t grasp what you mean by gluing blocks on. I’m sure it’s just my inexperience!

        • Hi! I definitely could have explained a bit better. Basically if you set a slab of concrete on your base it will slide around and not stay centered if it is pushed. For instance, if you rest your feet on a coffee table while sitting on the couch watching television the concrete would get moved a bit. So, I used construction adhesive to attach a scrap piece of wood to each corner inside the metal base. That way, you can set the concrete on the base and there will be no room for it to slide around because a block is in each corner. I like this method because I can easily remove the top in case the table ever needs to be moved. Let me know if that makes a little more sense 🙂 Thanks for the great question! – Pete

          • Lipstickinnd

            Aaahh I understand now. (Draw me a picture, I know!) Thank you very much. I really appreciate your input!

  • ZacharyTyler


    This is absolutely amazing! Thanks for a great thorouhh instruction.

    I do have one question: I’m looking to make a ROUND concrete dining top for my table base. How would you get the table to be round? Or what would you use to shape the table since the melamine doesn’t seem like it can take a circular shape?



    • Hi Zach! That is a great question. In the past I’ve cut melamine in a circle and then used garden edging to wrap around it. Does anyone else have ideas or suggestions? I’d love to hear from you so we can help out Zach! – Thanks! – Pete

  • ZacharyTyler


    This is absolutely amazing! Thanks for a great thorouhh instruction.

    I do have one question: I’m looking to make a ROUND concrete dining top for my table base. How would you get the table to be round? Or what would you use to shape the table since the melamine doesn’t seem like it can take a circular shape?



  • Dave

    You can find light weight concrete mixes to help reduce the weight of your table, which will give you a little more freedom in base design.

    • Great idea Dave! Yes, GFRC or fiber re-enforced concrete is another solution and is fun to work with.

  • Christine Graham

    Hi Pete, I am using your plan to make a coffee table. The base is a Parson’s base made of Cherry. The legs will be approx 3×3 inches, and the “skirt” or “apron” about 4 inches long. I plan to double up the skirt, and make it 2 inches thick.

    I want the top to be a 40 inch square, but doing calculations for that tells me I need a little over 2 bags of concrete. This means my top will weigh over 160 lbs! Does this sound like it would still be ok? I don’t plan to move the coffee table, I just didn’t know if that was going to be too heavy for the base, or just too heavy in general.


    • Hi Christine! Sounds like a fun project. For the apron are do you mean you are going to double up a couple 1×4’s or what do you mean by 4″ long? I’d recommend adding supports for sure underneath the center of the table to help distribute weight evenly. As long as plenty of support is used you’ll be okay. As always, plan to use wood glue to strengthen the joints. Let me know if that helps. Cheers – Pete

      • Christine Graham

        The apron will be 36″ wide, 4″ inches long (measuring in the direction from underneath the concrete to the floor), and 2″ thick (I am using two pieces of 13/16 thick cherry). Does that make sense? I was hoping to keep the simplicity of the parson’s base and not have to add any supports underneath the center, in case I ever want to replace the concrete with glass or something. I have been using glue as well as screws in the construction of the base. Is there any way to add filler to the concrete to make it lighter, or I pretty much have to add center supports?

        • Hi Christine, thanks for the clarification. That all makes sense now. If I were you I’d build it to your specifications and try out the top. I think it may actually be just fine. Worst case scenario you could always add supports if needed but you’ll probably be fine without. Are you planning to do the concrete 1.5″ thick? I typically don’t go thinner than 1.5″ thick with a normal concrete mix. You could look at using a product like cementall which has smaller aggregate and I’ve heard people have success doing 1 inch thick tables with it. You could also check out my patio bar concrete top project to see how foam can be used to create a lip around the concrete and make it look thicker. Let me know if this helps at all. Best of luck – Pete

  • Glen Sharkey

    Thanks for this- I’ve just finished pouring a concrete “fire box” and wanted to know how long I should leave it to cure before removing the timber mold- your article answered my question, but also inspired me to do more concrete work!!! Cheers, Sharkey

    • Hi Sharkey! I’m guessing you already removed it from the mold but I’d recommend 4 or 5 days to be safe. So glad you’ve been inspired. I’d love to see a project photo of your concrete project! Happy New Years! – Pete

  • Samanthaandkai Power

    IS it possible to Concrete a table you already have l dont Like to throw
    anything Out

    • If you have an existing table you could do what’s called a “Concrete Overlay.” You buy a polymer based concrete mix and apply it over the existing surface. There are different prep techniques depending on what the existing surface is made of. I’d recommend doing a google search to find a few examples. Good luck!

  • Jarrod

    Hi Pete,

    Here is a pic of my BBQ bench with concrete bench tops thanks to you. Your tutorial was the best. Thanks heaps for the help


    • Jarrod! Your BBQ BENCH looks so awesome! Nice work and thanks for sharing the photo. I wish it was bbq season up here in Montana. I am going to have to build an outdoor kitchen like you did! Nice work man!

  • Daniela Martínez

    Hi Pete, thats a great tutorial! I wanted to ask a few questions if thats ok… i’m doing a coffe table (all concrete) I´m working with a few aggregates so it would be stronger. But my problem is that when I start working on it at the end and sand it the aggregated pop up and I don’t want that, I want it to have that matte finish. How can I do that? how may days do I have to let it rest? or do I work on it before is completely dry (the problem here is it will loose its shape)? i hope you coulp help me! thanks you, Daniela

    • Hi Daniela! I’m not sure if you have finished or not but it sounds like you may need to let it cure longer if aggregate is popping out on the top surface. Temperature, humidity, the concrete mix used, and water ratio will all play a roll in curing time. To play it safe I’d wait 4 or 5 days before removing it from the mold in your situation. Flip the concrete and then allow it to cure another 24 to 48 hours prior to sanding or polishing. Are rocks actually popping out on the top surface or just the edges when using a sander? Feel free to post a project photo if you’d like so I can see what is happening. Cheers! – Pete

      • Daniela Martínez

        I actually really like how it looks, but is not what I was looking for. I want a “matte-smooth-shinny” finish. When I polish it, the aggregates start showing up, and I want it to look like if my concrete mix was only cement. Here is a picture of my coffee table.

        • Daniela Martínez

          Coffe Table

          • WOW. THAT looks great! Yep, I’d let the concrete cure a little longer (especially after it is completely out of the mold. Then start with 800 grit and it will polish the concrete without grinding down and exposing the aggregate.

            • Daniela Martínez

              Thank you!! it was a lot of work!! Is really hard to let it cure on water is really big (or at least that is what I call letting it cure 🙂 ) Thank you I will take your advice on the piece I´m starting tomorrow! thank you very much!

              • flamingoezz

                daniela, can you share what type of concrete you used and how it is holding up? also how thick is your surface? 2″?

          • Sam Cannons

            How do you make a mould for this shape table ?

            • Hey Sam! Daniela did a great job with her table! The mold is build out of melamine and I recently did a U shaped concrete log holder with free plans that will show you how a similar mold would be created. Here is the post and video with all the info. Hope it helps. Cheers!

        • Hi Daniela! I don’t see the photo yet, but I think I understand what you are saying now. So you are wet polishing it and exposing the aggregate. You can prevent this by starting with no more than 400 grit on the wet polisher. I typically start at 800. I classify anything over 400 grit as polishing and not grinding. 400 grit on down will grind the creme of the concrete away giving it the exposed aggregate look. 50 grit would cut right down to the aggregate quickly. 800 grit will usually keep the creme or at most give it a salt and pepper type finish (showing just small specks of sand in the mixture. To get the real natural look you are going for I’d start with 800 grit and see how that goes. This won’t expose the rocks and it will be a nice smooth/matt-shiny finish. Let me know if that helps!

  • Sandy

    Hi Pete, like everyone else thanks for the great project. I am trying to build a faux stone wall made with concrete about 1/2″ thick with mortar as well , any suggestions?

  • Lindsey

    Hey Pete! We are building (or attempting) a 70″x42″ concrete table for our patio. We have a concrete truck that is pouring a slab for us and we have some left over so I decided to try this adventure. Any suggestions, comments, things to get?

    • Hey Lindsey! That sounds like quite the table. A couple suggestions — Make sure it is no thinner than 1.5 inches in thickness. Have a good team available to help when flipping it. — Besides that — I’d watch all 4 of the youtube videos on my channel just to see some different finishing options etc. Let me know how it goes. I can’t wait to see how it turns out! – DIY Pete

  • Jarrod

    Hi Pete, I just gave your tutorial a crack but i’m hoping you can help me out with a problem. Once my concrete set, i flipped the it over and all the edges all around are crumbling. Do you know what could cause this problem or what i did wrong? Hopefully you might have an idea to help out..

    • Hey Jarrod! Did the concrete get mixed up thoroughly? Is the rest of the surface looking good? Could you post a photo so I can have a look? Hopefully I can get ya helped out! – Cheers – Pete

      • Jarrod

        Hi Pete, I’m pretty sure i mixed the concrete thoroughly. The rest of the slab looks great and i’m really happy with the result. It’s just the edges. Do you think i didn’t seal the inside enough? Cheers

        • Hey Jarrod — the top looks great — nice work! Yep, you did well mixing it up and vibrating the concrete. Was the caulk completely dry when you put in the concrete? Either way — you can take care of this and it won’t be a big deal. Mine have rough areas too sometimes. You’ll want to use the orbital sander with about 220 grit to round over the edges. Sometimes small rocks can chip out but that’s okay. You’ll come in later with the slurry paste which will fix up and fill in the rough areas, bug holes, and anything that chips out. You can repeat this process a few times if needed to get the perfect rounded edge. Hope that helps! — Also, a wet polisher would bevel that edge smooth if you have one. But definitely not necessary. — Your sander will work just fine for this table. – Pete

          • Jarrod

            Hi Pete, Thanks for your response. Yes caulk was completely dry when i placed the concrete in. I will continue with this slab and see the results after the slurry paste.

            I will post pictures of my BBQ bench when it is completed.

            Thanks again!!!

            • Hey Jarrod! I think you’ll be able to get it looking how you want it with a few coats of the slurry. So glad you are making the BBQ bench, it’s going to be awesome!

  • Morgan Colletta

    This is SO awesome! I am attempting a console table that also has a planter in it. I just got a little impatient and put way too much caulk. The more I tried to fix and smooth out the more I messed it up! It’s bumpy and wider in some areas. I worried the edges are going to be all jagged. Do you think it’s worth it for me to let it cure then pull off and do it again?

    Lazy but determined hehe!

    • Hey Morgan! I’m glad the tutorial has been helpful! The caulk will help give it rounded corners — and the concrete will form around the caulk. If they are huge glops then you’ll be able to tell in the final product. If is isn’t that big of a difference in being bumpy/wider then I probably would leave it. You will use the sander to round over the edges a bit, so that gives you a little room for error / removing bumps. If you feel they are pretty big, the easiest way to remove caulk from the mold is by using a razor blade. It will remove quickly and easily. Let me know what you decide to do and good luck! – Pete – ps: to help prevent the uneven caulk in the future you can use masking tape on each side of the same — run the silicon — and then smooth with your finger. The excess will go on the tape which you can then remove.

      • Morgan Colletta

        Thank you so much for your detailed answer, I so appreciate it! I ended up redoing it so the silicon step. I actually have another couple of questions if that’s ok.

        I poured my concrete into the mold- I added a built in box in the center so when I flip it over I’ll be able to plant some succulents- however, I underestimated the amount of concrete needed and I have about 1/4inch left until the concrete hits the top of the mold.

        I’m concerned that the center box I added doesn’t have enough concrete over it and will crack. I want to go get another bag tomorrow and add it ontop to fill the rest of the mold but don’t know if it will adhere because the bottom part started to cure already.

        Any thoughts on what to do to keep it from cracking?

        Let me know if this is making sense thank you!!!!!!!!!

        • Hey Morgan! Sorry for the delay — you are probably done by now, but if not here is what I’d recommend. Since the concrete is so thin at 1/4 inch there will be problems. With it cured, adding another bag may help — but you are going to want to use a concrete bonding agent to help it secure to the existing concrete as much as possible. Scuff up the existing concrete to give it a rough surface to bond to if it is smooth. I’m not sure how well this will work, but that’s my 2 cents. If anyone else has suggestions please chime in 🙂 Let me know how it turns out Morgan! – DIY Pete

  • Morgan Colletta

    This is SO awesome! I am attempting a console table that also has a planter in it. I just got a little impatient and put way too much caulk. The more I tried to fix and smooth out the more I messed it up! It’s bumpy and wider in some areas. I worried the edges are going to be all jagged. Do you think it’s worth it for me to let it cure then pull off and do it again?

    Lazy but determined hehe!

  • alaina

    Hi Pete,

    I poured the mold on Saturday, flipped and took the top off on Wednesday, then started sanding on Thursday. With light sanding all of the rocks started to show. What caused this?

    • alaina


    • Hi Alaina! Bummer, it looks it didn’t turn out like you wanted it to. What mix did you use and how much water was added? Was it real soupy, dry, or do you think it was mixed about right? It either had to do with how it was mixed or if it needed more time to dry after removing from the mold. What grit of sandpaper did you use? Sorry it didn’t turn out exactly as planned this first time. It will still be usable just a little more texture 🙂 I know you’ll get it down the second time for sure. Have a great day!

      • Nicholas Weinmann

        @ Pete
        What is the difference in results between adding too much water or not enough with regards to the final finish? If I were looking to achieve a smooth finish with no aggregates showing through how would I go about this/ what things should I avoid (ie. mixes, consistency, etc.)?


        • Hi Nicholas! Adding too much water will make the concrete weaker and more susceptible to cracking and issues. I you do not want aggregate to show (and have a smooth finish) — you will want to wait for the concrete to cure completely ( after flipping let it continue to dry another few days ). Then sand using an orbital sander with 200 or higher grit sandpaper. This won’t remove the creme and will let very little aggregate if any show. If you are wet polishing start at about 800 grit since it will polish the concrete and not grind away the creme. Another way to not show aggregate is to do a trowel finish where the concrete is poured right side up like in the bar top projects — — Let me know if that helps. —- Using the Quikrete Concrete Counter mix also helps a lot in making the edges nicer since the aggregate is smaller and doesn’t chip out when using the orbital sander. Cheers – Pete

  • Joseph Holschuh

    I finished the backyard ping pong table, and now it’s time to seal the thing. Here’s the problem: it’s very important that I preserve the appropriate bounce on this thing. As it stands, the bounce is more or less perfect. In afraid that if I use the wrong product, I’ll lose that. Any ideas on how to protect this thing from the weather while still maintaining a playable surface?

    • Joe!! That is so awesome. Wow. Did you end up doing it in 2 pieces? I can’t say I’ve ever made a concrete ping pong table myself, but you’ll want a good outdoor concrete sealer for the job. I sealed both the LED concrete table and my latest patio bar with a few thin coats of the Quikrete sealer shown in the post: – I Think Valspar makes one as well. They are waterbased acrylic sealers. You can dilute them if you want to slowly build up the sealer to get the best bounce. My recommendation would be to get one of those sealers and to test it on a very small section or on a scrap piece of smooth concrete to see if it affects the bounce. You’ll have to post a photo of it once ya get it all sealed up! Will you be painting or making any lines on it? Looks great and let me know your findings. Cheers – Pete

    • Mick Shuran

      My son and I want have talked about doing the concrete ping pong table too! I would love to see pics and get some tips. Pete’s site is awesome and I love checking out all of these ideas!

    • Natalie Keown

      Hi there can I ask how many people it took to lift this table? It looks pretty big

      • Joseph Holschuh

        We used four grown men to lift it the first time. Six would have been better. Since putting it in place, I have only moved it twice. Both times has been with the help of a varsity tennis team.

        • Natalie Keown

          Oh wow very heavy! Thanks for the reply 🙂

    • Pete

      Hey quick question, what was your way of going about mounting the table onto the base? Im looking to put mine in a public place and want to make sure it is sturdy and mounted completely so I can present the safety of it along with knowing how well it is mounted on the base? I appreciate any response. thanks!

      • Joseph Holschuh

        Great question. I didn’t. Mine is in the backyard, so I’m letting gravity do the work.

        At a local park I’ve seen a metal base attached with L-brackets and short lag bolts.

  • Unibuilder

    Hi Pete. Great tutorial as I am going to embark on a new kitchen table. Thought I would share a pic of one of my out door patio tables. A little bit different in design as I want it to look old and I don’t seal them either. I find that year after year they tend to look better. This table in particular is well over 300 pounds. It has the panel as shown on the front in a different design on the back as well as side panels. The top alone is about 120 pounds. All I have on my ipad for pics is this one but can post a few more later. I have a website with more designs etc but wasn’t sure if it was appropriate to post here.


    • Hey Glen! That is really cool, nice work! That’s funny you are just starting a kitchen table — I am working on one right now too! Except it is going to go on the patio, but could go inside as well. I decided to do it reverse cast and will be wet polishing it. What type of finish are you going to do and what type of base? What’s your site? Cheers!

      • Unibuilder

        Hi Pete,

        Not sure of the finish yet, as your was the first site I have checked out. I do want to add some colour though as the GF won’t go for straight concrete look. I will keep you posted as I progress. My website is

        Good luck on the new project

        • Very cool Glen, thanks for sharing and let me know how it goes. I like to use acid stains too (here are a couple pics: ). Keep up the good work and let me know how your table project goes! I will be pouring tomorrow, and posting / doing a video but that will probably be a couple weeks before it’s ready. Take care! – Pete

    • Gingras Lacy

      You can use WoodPrix, it has the best handbooks and ready instructions. You can learn much from them and make it yourself.

  • Drew Proctor

    Hey Pete! I love this tutorial and it’s such a great idea! It actually sparked an idea into my head. I am wanting to build a concrete patio in my backyard and was wanting to build a custom dining table on the patio. I was wondering if you think it would be possible to do a table that is about 70″ long by 45″ wide? Along with that, I would like to leave a hole in the middle of the concrete to drop in a propane fire burner pan. Do you think the size would work and also, do you think the hole in the middle is possible??


    • Hey Drew! Thanks for the great question. A custom concrete dining table would be really cool. You might want to think about building the table right side up and doing a trowel finish. This technique is called cast in place. This would save you a ton of time and eliminate the process of having to lift or move the table. Plus you can leave the trowel finish as the the final look and don’t have to fill in bugholes because you won’t have them when done this way. You could easily build a hole in the center as well. Check out this video about halfway down in another post by Buddy Rhodes about the pour in place technique: — I think it would show you a good idea of how the trowel finish works. Let me know if you have any other questions. Have a great weekend! – Pete

  • Rory Korpela

    Pete, this table looks awesome and I think I’m going to build one for a Christmas gift this year. Do you have plans on the base you made? I’ll look at Ana’s site but if you’ve already got it drawn up, that would be helpful.

    • Hey Rory! Thanks so much for thekind words. That’s awesome you are going to build one for Christmas! — I have a link toward the top of the article for Ana’s plans which I’m sure you saw — and then I modified them. Here are the measurements I used for the base to fit the concrete top. Let me know if it helps:) Hope all is well and good luck! – DIY PETE

      • Rory Korpela

        Pete, thanks for sending the dimensions here. I just poured my concrete yesterday into the mold so it can cure. Do you have to use anything to secure the concrete to the base or is the slab heavy enough to stay in place by itself? The person I’m giving this to has kids and the last thing I want is for the top to get bumped off and fall on someone’s foot/head, etc.

        • Nice work Rory. What I like to do is glue 3/4 thick wood blocks underneath to prevent it from sliding. I attach them with construction adhesive. In addition, you can use 100% silicon on the base to keep it secure as well. Run a thick bead of silicon on the top of the wood base and then put the concrete on. I prefer using 100% silicon over construction adhesive for this process because that way the top can be removed relatively easy if needed for moving purposes. Let me know if this helps. Thanks Rory and good luck! – Pete

          • Guest

            Pete, I realized I never posted pictures of the finished product. Thanks for your help with it. -Rory

            • Wow Rory! That looks great!! Congratulation on a job well done 🙂

          • Rory Korpela

            Pete, I realize I never posted pictures of the finished product. Thanks for your help with it.

  • Oscar

    This is amazing, I am making my tables next week and I have some ideas, such as a hole in the middle with a little vase fixed on the underside of the table for plants/flowers. And I was wondering if I would have any trouble mixing in one tub charcoal colored concrete and on another a dark brown/red, y idea was to have a stripe on the table of the dark brown/red that blends into the charcoal color for the rest of the table. Will this affect the structural integrity? Should I mix the concrete in one big batch, then separate to two batches and add pigment?

    • Great question Oscar and that is exciting you are going to make a few tables! Your idea sounds neat about doing the 2 different colors. You can certainly mix the concrete up in separate batches and then add color. Or you could mix everything together and then separate. It’s up to you. Does the stripe need to be be perfectly straight or are you going more for a stripe that kind of blends into the rest of the concrete? If it blends it will all bond together well and will not have structural issues. Let me know if that helps answer your question. Thanks Oscar and have fun! – Pete

  • Rob

    Hey Pete. Thanks for the great tutorial and troubleshooting tips listed in the comments. I am in the planning process and wanted to know which brand you used to seal the concrete before applying the wax? Would a sheet pad sander be able to handle the job or is an orbital sander a must?
    Thanks for taking the time to reply.

    • Rob, sorry for the delay! For some reason my comment system hasn’t been notifying me the last few days. For a concrete sealer I used the brand TILElab – gloss sealer and finish — from home depot. I think it was about $25 and is made to use on porous stone like concrete. — I think you could definitely try a sheet pad sander. The orbital just might be a little quicker. Shoot me a photo of your finished project, I’d love to see it! Cheers – Pete

      • Rob

        Hey Pete, the project was a success. The tutorial was straight forward and easy to follow. I ended up creating two concrete tops (24″ x 40″) & (17″x72″). I decided to leave the numerous bugholes since the surfaces wont be used for food prep & I enjoyed the unfinished look. Thanks again for the tutorial & answering my questions!

        *Edit – Not sure why duplicate photos posted. Unfortunately I couldn’t delete the second set.

        • HOLY SMOKES ROB! That looks great! I agree that the organic look of the bug holes is really cool as well. Such elegant and sleek looking design. Thanks so much for sharing and keep up the good work!

  • Taylor

    Hi Pete. I just pulled my 30×60″ desktop from the mold. I was a little worried about the bug holes, but when I turned it over I decided I kind of liked the crazy look. Have you ever sealed a table without filling the bug holes w/portland? Is it possible? I still want it to be smooth surface but if I could fill the holes with a clear thicker sealer that would be awesome. Thanks!

    • RussSWFL

      Taylor, I recently completed concrete countertops, and dealt with the issue of the bug holes or “voids” caused from air bubbles. I actually liked the look of them, but obviously not ideal for a countertop surface where food and liquids can get trapped. I purchased some thick clear epoxy at Home Depot (the stuff they seal bar tops with, found near the wood stains) and filled the holes with that before sealing. The epoxy dried crystal clear so you can still see its a hole, but its flat and smooth allowing you to wipe it down….looks amazing!

      • Russ, thanks so much for helping out and chiming in. I really appreciate it. I’d love to see a photo of your countertops sometime!! – cheers – Pete

    • Taylor! Sorry I missed your comment. Bug holes will happen and I typically fill them with portland cement. I’ve also filled them with a different color cement which is kind of neat. I have always filled the bug holes on the top, but sometimes leave holes on the edges unfilled as it gives it a real organic and natural look. Sounds like Russ has some good advice on epoxy. I’ve used the epoxy before on wood and it’s worked great. It does change the look and feel quite a bit for concrete though.

  • bristol

    Hi Pete! This is exactly what I have been looking for. Do you have any suggestions on how to attach table top to metal legs or base? Thanks in advance

    • Hi Bristol! Great to hear. How sturdy will your metal base be and is it going to be a coffee table or one that is more counter height? I typically attach them with silicon like I do when installing a concrete counter. But it depends on the situation. Let me know a few more details and I’ll let you know what I think would be best. Take care! – Pete

  • Barron

    Table looks great man. I am going to start on a larger project ! Love the view from the deck !

    • Hey Barron! Thanks a lot! You’ll have to send me a photo of your table, I’d love to see it. Take care! – Pete

      • Barron

        Sure. I am going to be doing the counter tops first, then building a dinner table.

  • David Stanhope

    Hi Pete, great table. I was curious about the ‘beefed’ up table you built for the frame using Ana White’s Buffet Table top plans. What were your wood measurements for the project?
    Her material list:
    2 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
    2 – 2×3 @ 8 feet long
    1 – 2×2 @ 6 feet long
    1 – 1×2 @ 4 feet long
    1 1/4” and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws

    • Hey David! Thanks for the kind words. Since I did not have a wood top, I simply used three 2×4’s to connect the two side sections on top. You can kind of see this in the photo where I am standing outside sanding the base. I attached a photo with the measurements from the table I made. Let me know if that helps and good luck!

  • Christine Blignaut

    Hi Pete, thanks for sharing this. I see many of the others asked questions around size. Well, I would really like to create a super-size table of 9’8″ X 3′. We are busy renovating so there will be ready-mixed concrete available, but I’m wondering about the required thickness and whether it will be too heavy to handle. Is this too ambitious? All I can think of to avoid flipping/moving it is casting it on it’s base and just removing the side strips – but then the large melamine board will need to remain which is not ideal since it’s outside. Will appreciate any tips/advice. Thanks!

    • Good Morning Christine! Great question and thanks so much for the comment. Well — the size you are talking about is large as you mention, but certainly doable. While you could go the route I do in the video, it would be massive to move and work with. So, I’d recommend the pour in place method where you remove the side strips. I’ve done this a number of times for mantles and larger pieces. The big difference is how it is finished and the time required. Doing a pour in place is quick because you use a trowel to finish it. NO FILLING OF BUGHOLES or having to do much polishing! It looks great too, but requires some trowel skills. You’ll need to use a float to get the cream to rise to the top, and then trowel. What I would do when pouring is build a base out of plywood, seal it, and build a lip around it so an apron runs around the whole side and covers the wood up. I know this all is probably and info overload — so what I’d recommend is to google “How to make a pour in place concrete counter” to try and find out about the whole process. My video won’t be up for a bit, but I know there needs to be one b/c there are not that many online and I get this question quite frequently. Best of luck Christine! – Cheers – Pete

      • Christine Blignaut

        Thanks so much for the quick reply, Pete. I think I’m going to give it a try! Any advice on sealer to be used so that the plywood that remains under the table top doesn’t decay in wet weather?

        • You betcha Christine! I’d recommend an oil based sealer and to role it on. Rustoleum from Home Depot is what I’ve used in the past (any color). Or, a spar urathane would work. Basically something to repel water from the concrete from being absorbed into the wood. Good luck! — Try googling ” Buddy Rhodes” hard trowel finish — to find his video about the process. Have fun! – Pete

  • eleonore

    thanks for this amazing tutorial. I just finished my concrete table. The base I build is in maple so it should be strong enough. the table is 30X48″. I will post a picture next mojth of the final result. i am really glad i found your tutorial because everybody at homedepot laughed at me when they heard about my project!!!

    • Hi Eleonore! Thanks so much for the kind words and I’m so glad the tutorial was helpful. I can’t wait to see a photo! Please do email me with some pics! Yeah, it is surprising how little people know about concrete tables and counters. They are beautiful and a great way to make affordable and high end furniture if you have the time to do it. Great work Eleonore! – DIY PETE

  • doug

    Hi Pete, i would like to build a 60″ diameter outside concrete patio table with a concrete base and concrete benches with concrete legs. Any tips for building the forms and attaching the base to the table top and the benches to the legs


  • raviamrita

    Hi Pete,
    So we thrifted a neat little 26 by 18 shelving, perfect for a kitchen island I am looking for. However it’s height is 30. I am thinking of not messing with the top ( by way of screwing in table legs etc. But doing a 4 inch concrete slab on it, say 30 by 20. Do you think it will work?

    • Hi! Thanks for your question and it sounds like you have a fun project ahead of you! A 4 inch slab will be heavy so just make sure the base will be strong enough to support it. I think it will give the kitchen a real bold look and that it will look real neat. Have fun and good luck. Let me know if you run into any questions along the way!

  • Adam

    Hi Pete. Easily one of the best how-to videos I’ve ever seen. Thanks so much! I have two questions. 1) I am going to build a 6’x4′ table top and am worried about the large size. Will I be OK with 1.5″ thickness and the thin reinforcement you show here? 2) Does the Portland cement you use to fill the bug holes match the color of the cement perfectly, or can you see a difference? Also, if I color my concrete, can I color the Portland as well? Thanks so much for the help and the great video!

    • Hi Adam! Thanks for the kind words man, I appreciate it and am so glad it helped! 1) The 6 x 4 top is a pretty big piece, but definitely doable. I’ve done table tops this size at 1.5″ thick which have turned out awesome. The big thing you’ll want to do is give plenty of time to cure before flipping — and have plenty of help to evenly turn it. As for re-enforcement, the wire mesh i used would probably be fine, but I might beef it up a bit. I’ve used a slightly thicker hogwire fence before which is about 1/4 bars and they are much more firm than what I used. Whatever you decide to do, probably beef up the re-enforcement just a bit.

      2( For this project the cement matched pretty well since they both didn’t have any coloring integrated. When you color the concrete piece, you’ll also need to mix in a little coloring to the portland slurry mixture. I try and mix as close as possible but I don’t ever really measure anything. For bigger bug holes you can mix a little sand into the portland. It will help even things out a little more. Let me know if this makes sense, it’s a little hard to try and explain everything in writing:) Good luck and send pics when you get done. Cheers Adam! – DIY PETE

      • Adam

        Thank you SO MUCH for the quick response! No one at Home Depot had ever done anything like this, so I’m very happy to have your advice. I’ll definitely go for the thicker reinforcement and longer curing times. FYI, I received a bid for the job today: $1,900. Thanks for helping keep that money in my bank account!

        • You bet Adam! That’s awesome you can save that money. Having them professionally done can get real expensive. — If you ever want to polish them you can always invest in your own wet polisher which can be done for around 170, but using this sanding technique you’ll be able to get a similar finish that I got on this project. Have fun!

  • jenny

    Hi Pete! I am going to make a coffee table with a concrete top; However i want to liven it up a bit.. I was thinking colored sand scattered throughout the top- if i place that down before putting the first layer of cement should it give me the look im going for, or will it just look a mess do you think? Also, i want to build the base as simple as possible- kinda just a large closed off block underneath, but maybe with some drawers too- any suggestions on accomplishing that? And finally, I want this to be an oval table top, not too big, but im not certain of the actual dimensions yet, should i probably stick with 1.5″ like you’re suggesting to others?

    • Hi Jenny! Very cool, sounds like a fun project! for the colored sand, you could put a real thin layer of it and then add the concrete. Just sprinkle it real lightly. Piles of it would just make craters of sand and the sand would eventually fall out. You might mix it in with the concrete mix for the top part of the table (bottom of mold). When sanding some will become exposed. Although, if you really want it to show it’s true color you’d want to wet polish it using something like this: — as for the base, I’d check out and see if she has a cool plan to work off. For the oval top, I’d go 1.5″ or thicker. It will get heavy so make sure to have extra hands for the project. If you like a more bold look, go with 2″. – Good luck and email me pics when you are done. Can’t wait to see it Jenny!

  • Karen

    Great video! I am planning to make a round tabletop for an outdoor table and would like it to be 72 inches. Do you think that is too big and I should stick with a smaller top like 60 inches? Thanks!

    • Hi Karen! Sounds like you have a fun project coming up. 72″ is doable, as long ads you have some strong helpers. I probably wouldn’t go any thicker than 1.5″. The 60″ would be much easier to work with, but if you are up for it the 72″ is feasible. Send a pic when you are done, I’d love to see it! – DIY PETE

  • kjwinsor

    Would like to make a concrete table for an outside patio. My husband and I live in Kansas so we experience all seasons and temps from below zero, in the winter, to above 100 degrees, in the summer. Would a concrete table if left out doors all year round hold up ok? What are your thoughts.

    • Hi KJ, Thanks for your question! I lived in Lincoln, NE during college and am in Bozeman, Montana now. Both places have quite extreme temperature differences. The good news is, wherever you are, concrete will hold up great! It is super durable and made to last, even in these types of conditions. What I would recommend is using an outdoor oil based sealer for this project to extend the finishes life. The H&C concrete sealer available at Lowes or Sherwin Williams will do a great job and give it a nice durable finish. Let me know if you have any other questions! — but yes, a concrete table will do great outdoors. –I’ve made a number of them and they’ve held up for years — even after cold Montana winters and hot dry summers. Cheers – DIY PETE

  • David Sims

    Really great instruction. I want to build a patio table but a kidney shape instead of a rectangle. Any ideas on building the form?

    • Hey David! Great question. I’ve built a number of tables with rounded shapes and there are a couple ways I’ve done it. 1 – Buy a sheet of high density foam from the hardware store in the thickness you desire ( usually pink in color) – sometimes blue. Try to find foam that is 1.5″ if possible b/c that is a good thickness to work with. Draw the shape on the foam and then cut with a knife or jigsaw. Once cut, sand the edges by hand. Take out the part you cut and now you’ll have the shape left in the foam. Attach the foam on top of melamine and then glue it down – or lightly put in screws to keep it from moving. Caulk where the foam meets the melamine. I usually run packing tape along the perimeter of the foam to aid as a release and to smooth edges. — You can do this same process by laminating 2 pieces of plywood together. You can also buy bendable forms online, but they are kind of expensive. I’ve used garden/landscaping edging and that has worked for some of the projects. Let me know if that helps and thanks for the question. Good luck! – DIY PETE

  • Matt

    I am getting ready to embark on a pretty large kitchen table top project, and I want to try the concrete. The size concerns me a bit at 78″ x 54″, and I was wondering if you have done any oversized table tops and/or have any tips for doing one. Because of the size, I was considering creating a plywood core to lighten it up and also possibly adding 1″ x 1″ angle steel in addition to the wire mesh for added strength. The concrete will ultimately sit on a set of old drafting table legs…I thought the concrete would really accent the antique industrial look of the legs. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

    • Hey Matt! Thanks for the message. Congrats on deciding to go forward with the table. I have done a few oversized tables and they turned out great, but are quite heavy! All my pieces are at least 1.5″ thick. I’ve found thinner items (especially of that size) to have problems sometimes with shadowing (from wire mesh) as well as structural issues when moving larger items. I have done aprons around the perimeters to make 1.5″ pieces look thicker if needed. I think your idea sounds great. Couple questions that would help me out — Are you going to polish the top with a wet grinder, use my sanding method, or do a hard trowel finish? Were you planning to build offsite or pour in place? – That way I can provide some better feedback. Thanks! – DIY PETE

  • How do you attach the concrete top to the wooden base?

    • Hi Janelle! Great question. I typically use 100% silicon and run a thick bead of it around the top of the base. This prevents it from sliding around and if it ever needs to be moved to a new home you can separate the concrete from the base easily. If you’d like a more permanent attachment you could use construction adhesive / liquid nails. That is a much stronger bond. I use the table in my dining room against a side wall as a buffet style table. For that, 100% silicon works just perfect. Let me know if this helps or if you have any other questions Janelle. I’m happy to help! Cheers from Big Sky Country Montana – DIY PETE

  • Henry

    Love the look of this. How do you calculate how thick the concrete should be for the area? I’m curious about building a smaller (area wise) version while trying to cut down the weight for a more moveable table – pretty crucial in a college apartment. Thanks!

    • Hey Henry! Thanks for the question bud. So you really don’t want to go much thinner than 1.5 inches for a concrete table if you are using re-enforcement as it can shadow through and you can see the grid of the metal wire sometimes. But, I have done an inch thick before with diamond mesh (stucko type mesh) and it has worked. At 1.5″ it is about 15lbs / square foot and looks real nice. I think you’d be able to manage that weight pretty well if it is a smaller sized table. I wouldn’t go any thicker than the 1.5″ just because it starts to get super heavy. I hope this helps, if you have any other questions at all though let me know man. Good luck on your project Henry! – Pete

      • jacqueline sinfuego

        Hi Pete. I would like to make a concrete top with dimension 96″ L x 40″ W with 136 kg only. What do you think better way to go just to maintain/keep the weight at 136kg: use lightweight aggregate w/ re-enforcement or play with the thickness? Thanks!

  • disqus_qEziVFc8uC

    I really like the look of your table. I already have a piece of polished granite 52″ by 20″ and would love to use it as the top to this table. Do you think the base could support a piece of granite this size and if so, any recommendations for how to adhere it to the base? Thanks.

    • Hi! The base I built could certainly support your piece of granite. If you’d like I could take photos to show you how I beefed up the plans for my base. You’d widen it as well. As for attaching it, I used silicon and it works real well. The piece is very solid. If you have any other questions please let me know. Thanks for your kind words. May I ask how you came across my blog? Cheers – Pete

      • disqus_qEziVFc8uC

        I should have asked, did you use pine for your base? Have you had any issues with softwood lumber warping or bending on you over time when used in the construction of weight bearing items such as tables? ThanksJordan

        • Hi Jordan,

          I used pine from our local lumber store. I haven’t had any issues with warping or bending on any of the tables.
          I have a couple pieces – pictured below- ( a desk – 7 feet by 24″) and a buffet table (about 6 feet by 20″) that I made about 4 years ago out of pine. They look that same as they did on day 1. No warping. Just make sure to beef up the top so the concrete’s weight is dispersed well. (Concrete at 1.5″ thick is about 15lbs per square foot — very similar to granite.

          • disqus_qEziVFc8uC

            Is the picture with you sanding an example of the ‘beefed’ up based that you are mentioning? Also, to adhere the base to the top, did you run caulk along to top of the base, put on the top, and then caulk around the outside to ensure a tight bond?

            • Hi Jordan, the photo is of the beefed u version. Normally that design would simply have 2×8’s for the wood top (instead of concrete). So I used 2×4’s instead of a top — to connect the two sides of the base at the top, making it very sturdy. To attach the top I put a decent sized glob of silicon in each corner and ran a wide bead around the perimeter. I did not run a bead around the outside at the end b/c I didn’t feel it was needed, but you certainly could!