How to Build a 4×4 Farmhouse Table

Building and creating with my hands has always been a passion of mine and something I love sharing with others. When I stumbled upon plans for the table I was thrilled and wanted to create the most in-depth video online sharing how to build a farmhouse table.

I’ve built a number of tables over the last few years, but this seems to be one of my favorites because of its bold looks. It’s built out of 4×4, 2×4, and 2×10 lumber. The large beams give this table a bold look and make the table as solid as a tank. This farmhouse table build will score you a number of brownie points with your lady.

The original plans for the project are from Ana White’s website, who has hundreds of free plans available. I modified the table by making the table wider and longer. The larger size provides more space to spread out and for food or a centerpiece in the middle. This table has been a conversation piece and has worked great for our dinner parties and meals. This farmhouse table will last for years and will be able to be passed on to family members for generations. Whitney from Shanty-2-Chic also has a post about creating this table and she collaborated with Ana-White on her project.

In-Depth Farmhouse Table Video Tutorial


The complete plans can be found on Ana’s site and there is a downloadable PDF. Ana White and Whitney from Shanty-2-Chic partnered on creating the plans. The project is fairly simple and will take about a day to assemble + finishing time.

Modifications: The only modifications I made to Ana’s plans were to the overall size. I used an additional 2×10 to increase the width of the table. I cut the table top boards a little longer and enlarged the width of the table base. I show the table top modifications in drawings below. Feel free to modify your table from the plans to best suit your needs.

Tools Needed

Power Drill
12″ Miter Saw
Kreg Jig
Orbital Sander
Tape Measure
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection

2 1/2 inch Kreg Screws – Need 1 Box
6 inch Torq Screws (for attaching 4×4’s to each other) – Need about 40 or so
4.5 inch Torq Screws (for attaching 4×4 top braces to table top) Need about 20
2.5 inch Torq Screws (for attaching 2×4 top braces to table top) Need about 20
Stain ( or White Vinegar / Steel Wool )

* The 6 inch and 4.5 inch screws can sometimes be difficult to find. I’d recommend going to a contractor supply or local building / lumber store. Only select Home Depot and Lowes stores carry them.

MaterialsSee Plans here (look at my modification diagrams to see how my table differs from Ana’s plans.)

Wood for the Project

You’ll need to buy 4×4, 2×10, and 2×4 boards for this project. These boards can be found at your local lumber yard. Take your time to find quality boards that are straight and have little warp.

Farm table supplies
The Build

First, I built the table top out of 2x10s. I used 5 2×10’s for the main part of the table and a 2×10 for each breadboard end.  Ana’s plans call for four main boards, but I wanted a little larger area to spread out. I used a 12″ miter saw to make all of the cuts. I cut the 5 boards to 69 inches long.

Here is a look at the table top. A 2×10 board is actually 9 1/4 inches wide. The total dimensions of the top are  46 1/4 inches by 87 1/2 inches.


Click Photo to Enlarge

Line all of the boards up and mark where you’d like to drill pocket holes. I typically space the pocket holes about 8  to 10 inches apart.

Set the Kreg Jig at the 1 1/2 inch setting for the stock thickness. (My video says 2 1/2 inch setting but I meant to say 1 1/2 inch.)


You’ll attach each board using the 2.5 inch long Kreg Jig screws. It helps to clamp the boards to each other and use a little body weight to get the boards even with each other.

Drill two pocket holes on the ends of each board as well. They will be used to connect the main boards to the breadboard.

how-to-attach-farm-table-breadboardHere is a photo of the completed table top from the top side. The overall dimensions of my table are approximately 46 1/4 inches wide by 87 1/2 inches long.

The Farmhouse Table Base

I had to modify the width of the base a bit so that it fit the wider table top. Here is a diagram of the modifications I made to Ana’s plans.

Farm Table Plans

Farm Table Modifications – Click to Enlarge

Modified Width – Click to enlarge

I built the two ends out of 4×4’s. I used 6″ long torq screws (also known as star pattern screws or leg screws) to connect them (about 3  for each joint). The two vertical boards are cut at 10 degree angles (parallel to each other). The lower horizontal board is cut at a 10 degree angles as well (not parallel).


Connect the two ends together with the 4×4 horizontal beams on top and bottom. I didn’t have an extra set up hands to help me, so I used Jack Clamps to help hold everything up while I tied the boards together with 6″ torq screws. I attached the two horizontal 2×4’s using 2.5 inch Kreg Jig screws.


how-to-build-a-farm-table-and-instructionsAttach the base to the top using 4.5″ torq screws through the 4×4 beams. Use 2 inch torq screws to connect the 2×4 to the table top. (I counter sunk mine a bit)

Cut the two braces at 45 degree angles. Attach using 2 to 3 screws on top and bottom that are 6 inches long. Drill the screws in at an angle.

Here is a look at the completed table prior to staining and sealing the piece. I also created matching benches to fit this table. The plans can be found by clicking here. I modified the width so they are a total of 69″ wide. Instead of using a 2×10 for the breadboards I use 2×8’s. Everything else was kept the same as Ana’s plans. The inside span of my table where the benches fit in is 73″ so that left 2 inches of wiggle room on each side of the bench so it can easily slide in and out.

Benches for a farmhouse table


The next step is to make the table unique to you. I decided to distress the farm table by using tools around the shop to make the table look worn. I used nails to create wormhole marks and a circular saw blade and hammer to put some character into the table.


I then heated up an old bolt with a blow torch and created a neat bolt mark in one corner of the table top.

Use 120 and 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the table and to soften the table’s corners.


I used a #00 Steel Wool and White Vinegar solution to patina the wood and give it an aged look. Put a good handful of steel wool in a jar and add white vinegar. Let the vinegar dilute the steel wool for at least 3 to 4 days. The mixture will get darker the longer you let it sit. I let mine sit for a full week. Once diluted, simply brush the mixture on your piece. Oxidation will occur as the mixture reacts with the tannins in the wood to give it variations in color. It changed the Fir wood to dark blues, greys, browns, and black. Do not use white Pine because it will not darken much at all. If you’d rather use a stain, Minwax has some great choices to choose from. A couple of my favorites are Special Walnut, Dark Walnut, Provincial, Weathered Grey, and Golden Oak.
* You can always dilute your mixture if it is too strong. Simply pour a little of the strong mixture in a new cup and add white vinegar. Wipe the solution onto the table with a clean rag. Use a brush to get hard to reach areas.

Let the solution soak in and dry for about 6 hours. The table will darken up quite a bit depending on how strong your solution is. The boards will all take the stain a bit differently and you never know exactly how it’s going to turn out. That’s the fun part!

Here is what my table looked like the next morning when it was completely dry. It looks somewhat dull until a polyurethane is applied.

I finished the benches using the same technique. I loved the variation and stripes that were created with the steel wool and vinegar finish. I love rustic finishes. However, I know not everyone does, and so a stain with a wood conditioner might be a better option if you are looking for more of an even and consistent finish. Minwax makes a wood conditioner and it helps stain take more evenly.

Farm Style Benches

Benches finished with steel wool and vinegar


Wipe or brush on 2 to 3 thin coats of  Minwax polyurethane. The finish will make the colors pop and warm up the look of the wood to give it a honey like glow.

Let each coat dry completely and sand between coats with 220 or higher grit sandpaper.

Allow the final coat to dry and then carry grab some buddies to help carry the table into you home. This table is heavy, so entice your friends with a little pizza and beer.


Farm Style Benches with Polyurethane

Finish on Benches

The finished table looks great and works awesome for dinner parties and gatherings!

Like this project? Please share with your friends and family by liking below or pinning the photos to Pinterest! Subscribe to my newsletter to hear about all the latest free project ideas and tutorials!

  • Adam

    I’m wondering if anyone has extended the bread boards on the end enough to make room for seating on the end? It doesn’t look like you could comfortably sit at the end… chair would interfere with the bottom brace. Maybe it’s only intended for side seating? Maybe I’m missing something. Thanks for advice.


      You could definitely expand the bread boards on the end to allow for more seating Adam. I would just be careful of letting them overhang too far without support. If you did expand them I would also add some sturdy supports underneath of them. Cheers!

  • Todd

    I am really interested in building this table. I just have one question… How do you prevent cracking on the inside of the table? I have seen tables like this crack and I would like to prevent that. Thanks!


      This design can be prone to cracking. It hasn’t been an issue for me because in an area with low humidity. You can use biscuit joints, dowels, or tongue and groove joints to allow for expansion of the wood if you are worried about cracking.

  • KristinRyan Broughton

    Where are the plans for the benches ?!

  • Timothy Clements

    Just finished the table, now on to the benches. Thanks for the video!


      That looks fantastic Timothy! Great job! 🙂

  • John Crippen
    Here is my table. Made it larger 9’06” x 3’10” and 30 inches tall


      Nice work John! It looks great and thank you for sharing!

  • John Tolbert
  • Ashli

    Hi Pete! So we bought our beetle kill-pine from a saw mill that had been sitting outside. Wood had some age to it so it’s become a little frustrating to work with. We are having trouble with our breadboard ends getting them flush and tight with the rest of the table. Currently we have gaps. We just un-drilled all the tabletop pocket holes and are going to start over this weekend. Any suggestions to help with the gaps with the breadboard ends?
    Much appreciated, thank you!

    • Hi Ashli, that beetle kill pine sounds beautiful! You might try using dowels to make the connection more secure. If warping is causing the breadboard not to fit tight you might run one side through a jointer. – And make sure each of the planks are flush with each other. Best of luck!

  • Andrew Miller
    • Absolutely beautiful Andrew! Great work!

  • Darrin Jenkins

      Looks great Darrin! Hope you get some good use out of it and enjoy it!


  • Doug Fenner

    Finished the counter height 4×6 table. Was a beast. Decided on the 7 degree cuts.
    https ://

  • Roy McCall

    Hey Pete. Question. Finished my table. Although, I am noticing that two diagnal corners of the table lift easy and the other two are solid and heavy. Everything is tightly together. Wonder what could be causing this?


      Looks Awesome Roy! The problem with the corners could just be a bit of warp in your materials. It should settle out a little bit, but if it doesn’t you could always shim one of the legs. Let me know if that helps.


  • Krissie

    Hello Pete, so I had a question on what you did for the seams. I just built a table as well and love the color after conditioning the wood. I have two small kids and am nervous about crumbs and things getting in the crevices or seams. Will poly protect it enough. I didn’t want to add any wood filler afteaid it will ruin the look. Your advice will be much appreciated.

    Thanks, Krissie

  • Ashli

    What type of lumbar did you use for the table? Going to a few lumbar supply stores in town tonight. Thank you!!


      Hi Ashli, I used cedar but pine could work as well. Cheers!

  • Zachary

    Not sure if I missed it, but where are the plans for the benches ?

  • Jeremy Willoughby


    Finished this project a few weeks ago as we were wrapping up our kitchen renovation. Great video tutorial and even though I went with the Anna White/Chanty2Chic plans it was nice to follow along with your build.


      Happy that my video could help. It turned out great Great!


  • T L

    anyone know what # on the TORX screw? #10 x 6″ and 4.5″

  • David Campbell

      Looks great David!

  • Doug Fenner
  • Doug Fenner

    Here are some pics of the table I’ve made off your design. I love it, heavy table and soundly strong. I had to use lag bolts but sunk them in 1/4 in deep and putty the holes. Barely tell they are there. I do have one question now. My mom wants the same table but 6 inches higher. What do you recommend? Change cut angles to 5degrees?

    • Nice work Doug! Very cool. As for modifying the height — I don’t have the calculations — but around 5 or so degrees will most likely do it. I’d do some experimenting with scrap boards to get it dialed in. Best of luck!

  • Daniel Callender

    Seems like 6″ and 4″ Torx screws are difficult to find, anything i can substitute that with?


      You could look into finding some 1/4 inch lag bolts —- and or countersinking the longest screws you can find so they bit into each board is something to look into but not optimal. Cheers!

  • Logan Strand

    I’m interested in this project, but am curious about the wood cracking. Any issues with that occurring? I’ve seen some videos where they say this will crack because the wood is secured with pocket screws. Anyone having that issue?


      Hi Logan! The pocket hole method and breadboard on this simple to build table don’t really allow for movement. I honestly haven’t had any cracking on my table, but a slight shrinkage of the width of the table. For some folks — especially in humid environments — there can be more issues though. Today I would build it differently, but this is a super basic way a table can be built with minimal tools.

  • Pachakutik

    I have the table top all cut, but had a question. Do I space the pocket holes 8-10 inches on one side of the boards or both sides, save for the side pieces? Is there any advantage, like helping to reduce possible gaps or cracking, by screwing both sides of the three central boards?

  • Jed

    Thanks Pete, thought I would share a pic of the finished product! I still may epoxy over the top, we have 3 kids and I want to keep scrambled eggs out of the cracks! I really appreciate the plans and videos!!


      Thanks for sharing Jed! It looks amazing!

  • Ashley

    If I wanted to make this table even longer…what sizes of lumber do you suggest? I want to be able to fit 6 people comfortably on each side.

    • Ashley

      Make that 7 people..I want it to stretch across my patio without having to make multiple tables…but still fit a large group of people. That possible?

      • DIYPETE

        Hey Ashley! Yes, many folks have increased the length of the table to accommodate more folks. You can simply modify the length of the base and add longer boards. Some folks like to add additional support and extend the ends so someone can sit at each end with plenty of room. Best of luck!

  • Jed

    Pete, thanks for this and the video! I just finished the build and am starting the sanding / finishing process. I have a couple of questions if you can help. First I just bought framing lumber from the big box store and built it. Now people are telling me I should have let the wood sit in my house for a few weeks before building so that it can dry. Is this something you did, have you had any issues since the time you built it? I am planning to stain with minwax, should I use a wood conditioner first? I am planning a poured epoxy coating on the table top, I am concerned I should wait a while and see if I have issues as the lumber drys before I spend the money and time on the epoxy? Any help would be appreciated!


      Hey Jed! It is best to let the wood dry out and acclimate. The moisture levels in woods will all differ, but allowing it to dry out a bit helps minimize movement. I did wait a bit and live in a pretty dry environment – and have had little movement and no big issues. But for those in more humid climates there will be more shifting. — A wood conditioner is a good idea to help the stain go on more evenly / less blotchy. — I haven’t done an epoxy finish as I do the polyurethane — but I might wait a bit to see if that is going to be the best solution. Good luck!

  • Brian S

    Hi Pete, you may have answered this already, so I apologize if I’m a repeat. What type of wood did you use for your build? Where did you buy it?

  • JDZ

    Hey Pete, New to this whole world and I figured I would get started on something a bit smaller but still use a lot of the same techniques you show in your video here. My big question is about lumber selection…. I went and got a few 2X4’s at my local Home Depot but the very BEST board still had more warp in it than any of the ones you used. I know the point of this table is to keep it rustic (which also keeps the price on lumber down) but do you have any suggestions for getting boards that aren’t as warped as 99% of the Home Depot stock seems to be?


      Hey JDZ! Welcome to the world of woodworking. That’s awesome you are getting into it! — My best advice is to really dig through the racks and take your time looking through boards. Sounds like you’ve been doing this. Sometimes batches come in that are great and other times terrible. Also feel the weight of the boards — if they feel super heavy and wet then they have a lot of moisture content and will shrink and warp quite a bit. Look for kiln dried. And if the batch of wood isn’t looking great at one store — you might try another. I often have to bounce around between Home Depot, Lowes, and our local Lumber yards. I wish I had a better answer but it really is a hunt sometimes 🙂

  • Scott Kennedy

    Hey Pete! Looking to modify the width of the plan to be roughly 28 inches, any suggestions on how to adjust the length of the cross pieces of the legs? Great build!


      Thanks Scott! Sounds like you are going to be doing more of a sofa table or just something quite a bit smaller in general. You might downside the legs to 2×4 boards so they aren’t so bulky/blocky like a 4×4 might be on something quite a bit smaller. I’d recommend checking out to see if you can find some more ideas for a narrower style table. You won’t have much trouble modifying it to best fit your space. Cheers.

  • Aaron
  • Aaron

    Thanks for the information. It really helped.

  • Rexanne Collins

    How does the table look today? Has the wood moved at all? Or still looks like this?


      Hi! Mine has had minimal shifting in our dry climate. However, this can differ where you live. While I do like the farmhouse style tables, I’ve actually replaced mine in my home with a concrete top. – It’s different, but now we don’t have crumbs getting in the cracks etc. (just another idea) — Cheers

  • Bryan Otteson

    Just finished my table and bench. Kept mostly to the plans and it came out great!


      Wow Bryan! Thanks so much for sharing. Looks fantastic!

    • Nicole

      I absolutely love this! What was the wood type used and the finish on this one? If you used steel wool how long did you let it sit in the vinegar?

      • Bryan Otteson

        Hi Nicole. I’m glad you like it! The wood is Fir and I used a Pecan oil-based stain with a clear Poly sealer.

  • Burcu C. B.

    That was our first DIY project and turned out great! We used Redwood heart, the wood is beautiful. Still waiting for white vinegar and steel wool mixture to get ready, then we’ll use outdoor minwax stain. Thanks to my husband, my friends and Pete who helped me to have this beautiful outdoor farmhouse table:)
    I wish I could add our timelapse that we record everything while we build this table.


      Hi Burcu! You all did a fantastic job. I absolutely love it. Great work!

  • Danny

    Loved this build, thank you for all your great project ideas! I still need to put the poly on but it looks great already. Your not kidding when you say it’s a heavy table!


      Great Job Danny!

  • disqus_5tAkM9LH9Q

    Pete, followed your plans an it worked out well. Just have to sand an it will be done. Thanks!

  • Jones424

    Thank you, just finished it tonight. The wife is very happy.


      Thanks so much for sharing the photos, it turned out beautiful! Great job!

  • James Blattler

    Love the finish you used. Do you know how well a stainable wood filler would take the staining solution you made? I was thinking about using wood filler for some gaps between the boards.


      Hi James, in my experience it doesn’t take to the wood filler. An actual stain will better than the solution as the filler doesn’t react with the solution.

  • Kimberly Kamrowski Morden

    Thank you for posting these plans. We modified our table and benches to be a bit longer to fit our family of 9, but it turned out beautifully!

    • Katie Wentz

      Kimberly, what are your dimensions? We want to build one, family of 6 but want extra room for more. Thanks! Looks beautiful!

  • Yaz

    Would you (or anybody) let me know what’s the thickness of the screws you used. Because you mentioned the length not the thickness.
    I went to Home Depot and they asked me that

  • shawnb

    Pete, question? This is the next project im thinking of undertaking. My concern is fitting in through the turns in my house. Do you have any ideas, for easily removable tops. I was thinking a system sort of like my furniture store leaf systems which is sort of like a window latch. Id love youre feedback. Thanks

  • Isaiah Arnold

    Love how my table turned out. Thanks for the help!


      Thanks for sharing Isaiah! I love it!

  • Brent

    Hey Pete thanks for the in depth plans and ideas for this table.. just finished mine and couldn’t be happier, I used reclaimed wood I found in my barn.


      Wow Brent! That looks fantastic, thanks for sharing!

  • Vito Pulverenti

    My friend and I actually saw this and thought it would be awesome to make. we are actually just a couple of broke college kids. this table was so fun to make and we also made a few modifications throughout the process. we are now in the process of selling this table. thank you DIY Pete 🙂

    • diypete

      Vito! Your table looks awesome! Way to go, and what a great way to earn some extra cash 🙂 Good luck! Feel free to post to the Facebook page, I’d love to share your project. Nice job staging it for the photos!

  • Jake Spirek

    Thanks so much, Pete! Used your guide along with Ana’s and it turned out great!

    • diypete

      You bet Jake, your table project turned out fantastic! – Pete

  • Brian Amado

    Just finished my build, I went big!! 111″ long and 53″ wide for my wife as a gift. It came out great!! I used Doug Fir because I could get all the different sizes in kiln dried. Took the brown stain perfectly. I added a skirt to give it a nice polished look. Your tutorial was great, I really appreciated building a table on my own by follwing your video, saved me a boat load too because all the tables I looked at were thousands for this size!!!


  • Mark Britton

    Pete, Have a problem.. So i didn’t right away fasten the top to the base, and now the table is warped bad.. has a nice twist to it. See the attached photo.. any thougths on how to take the twist out. it is so strong that it pulls up the base and makes it real un-even.
    -Mark Britton

  • Atul Desai

    Hello Pete,
    I like all your projects, I am going to move into a new house with a indoor workshop and cant wait to build my first project, i just wanted to know what kind of wood did you use to build this farm style dinning table and benchs.
    Please keep posting on youtube channel i am a fan/ subscriber.


      Thanks for saying hi Atul! I used douglas fir for my table and benches. It is easy to find around the NW part of the US. Cheers!

  • Zach Fisher

    I’ve read a lot of post saying that the breadboard ends shouldn’t be attached with pocket holes. Has anyone had any problems with the breadboard ends cracking due to seasonal wood movement?

  • Justin

    Here is my first ever project! Really enjoy your site! Thanks for all the easy videos to follow.


      Hey Justin! Congrats on completing your first project. It looks great man. Keep up the good work and I can’t wait to see what you build next. Cheers!

  • Don Heninger

    Quick question. I am rather new to all of this wood working stuff, but am having a great time learning it.
    What type of lumber did you use? I can only seem to locate Spruce up hear in Canada (Alberta), would that work fine or am I asking for trouble? Been looking around for Fir, but it only seems to come in 1″xN dimensions.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

    • HI Don! So glad you are having fun with projects. I used doug fir for this project. I’ve had a number of folks build their table out of spruce. Good luck!

  • Rick

    Hey Pete, thanks for all the great plans! I’ve built (and sold) several of them. Should anything special be done on the tabletop to allow for movement. I’ll do the basics like wood conditioner, alternating grain to prevent cupping and breadboard ends but do I need to use any other fasteners to prevent splitting?

  • Christian Bedekovic

    Hi, I have one question. I’m new to woodworking so I hope it is not a silly one! Can I just do straight legs instead of cutting them in an angle?

    • Hi! Yep, you could do straight legs for the table, and remove all angles 🙂

  • Andrew Chetney

    Fun project to work on and the wife loves it!

  • Brendan

    Thanks Pete! Just finished mine!

    • Hey Brendan! Wow, the wood you used reacted with the vinegar solution in a really neat way. I love the variation! Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing!

  • Andrea Kottwitz

    I was looking closer at your photos and it looks like you sealed between the spaces between boards. If so, what did you use? We built this table last year and didn’t think to do so and of course food slips in! Thanks for your advice in advance! Love this table

    • Hi Andrea, I didn’t seal between the spaces specifically — I simply sealed each board using a brush and some polyurethane. (The boards were close so the poly pooled in them a bit.) – Food in the cracks is definitely a downside of the rustic style board top unfortunately. I know of a few people who have filled gaps with epoxy resin. Cheers!

  • Eddie Alberton

    @diypete I need help…. PLEASE!!! I built your farm house table and I turned out great. But my wife now wants 1 of your benches to go with it. Do you have plans for the benches you built????? Please please please thanks

  • Katie

    So happy with our build!


      Wow! You guys did AMAZING, Katie! You should definitely be happy with this – keep up the great work. Enjoy your dining table. Cheers

  • Courtney Younghans

    Did you use the poly on your legs? Or just the table and bench tops????

    • I used it on the legs as well. It ties everything together nicely and helps give everything a nice durable finish. I did about 3 coats of poly on the top and 2 on the legs.

  • Sam

    Hi Pete!

    Great videos, I’m planning to deck my house out in all new furniture based off your videos. Just to see how I could do, I made my girlfriend this table for Christmas. Everyone loves it!


      Sam, that’s awesome! You did an amazing job here, wow! I love how you contrasted the wood with the white paint. Keep up the awesome work, my friend. Cheers!

  • Joe Medlin

    Preparing to take on a farmhouse table build for our home and your video/instructions are INVALUABLE. I love this table and it’s nearly exactly what we want but my one concern is the clearance at the ends of the table, as we would like to put chairs at the ends. Is this design functional for chairs at the head(s)?


      Thanks Joe, much appreciated! This design can be tweaked to be more functional for end seating. I would extend the overall length of the table mid-section and attach breadboards to the longer section. That way you’ll have plenty of leg room for the ends. Best of luck. Cheers!

      • Joe Medlin

        Thank you so much for the reply. Just to clarify but you are saying it won’t be an issue to move the legs toward the middle of the table (length-wise) to allow for ‘leg room’? Part of me thought it might be an issue for the bread-board to just be ‘floating’ and not have the legs under it.

  • Benjamin Driscoll

    I’m looking at your plans and trying to think of some modifications that make it easy to take apart and put back together. It’s big and heavy so that would help with moving it around when necessary. I was thinking of some threaded inserts in the table top, that you would bolt the leg sections into. Then doing the cross supports with nuts and bolts too. Any ideas, or any other followers do something like that?

    I did the farmhouse bed from Ana whites site and used some hardware from Rockler that allows you to hook the frame rails into the head and footboard so the bed can come apart easily. Worked pretty well.


      Benjamin, thanks for reaching out! I like your ideas here, thinking ahead to move-ability and ease of use. I think that you’re on the right track by adding threaded rod inserts into the base that the table wold secure on to. I haven’t really seen anyone else doing this, yet it could be possible! Best of luck. Cheers!

  • Juan Carlos Lopez

    hi pete! I really want to make this table for my wife. My problem is I cant find fir 2x10s. I’ve found fir 4x4s at Lowes so how bad would it look to do fir legs and southern yellow pine for the top?


      Juan, thanks for reaching out, you should definitely tackle the build! Don’t let the wood selection discourage you, I’m sure that, especially after staining everything with the same stain, it will all tie together nicely. I don’t think it would be a problem to look bad at all, give it a go! Cheers

  • Jade Gribble

    How long would you say it takes to complete the table and 2 benches?


      Jade, it really depends. I would say that you could build the whole table in one solid shop outing (one day) and the benches would take 2-4 hours a piece. It really isn’t that hard once you get started. If you’re going to use the steel wool and vinegar solution, start that before the build, as it takes a couple of days to react. The finishing process will add another couple of days onto the build, but isn’t that time consuming, just takes time to dry and cure. Good luck!

  • Tim Strohl

    Loved this so my 14 year old son and I built are a couple pics

    • Hi Tim! You and your son did a great job with this. I’m sure it was fun to get to build it together. Thanks for taking the time to share the photos. Take care!

  • Dan

    Thanks for the tutorial, Pete. Really excited how this turned out and ready to start my next project.


      Dan, that looks amazing, wow! You’ve done a great job here – I really like the look of your table. Keep on rocking, excited to see what you do next. Cheers!

    • Paul Feinberg

      How did you get that look? What type of stain/finish did you use on that looks great!

      • Dan

        I used steel wool and vinegar to age the wood (Douglas fir) then applied several coats of Minwax Polyurethane Semigloss. Thanks for the compliment!

        • Thanks so much for chiming in and helping Paul! I love how your table turned out Dan!! – Pete

          • Dan

            Thanks! Woodworking is a brand new hobby and I’m loving it.

        • Paul Feinberg

          Ya I really like that color……how long do you think you let the steel wool sit in the vinegar and did you dilute it?

          • Dan

            I let it sit for a few weeks, but I’m sure it would look fine in less time. I took my time trying to select boards that had character (as well as being straight) and I think that probably helps in the coloration.

            • Paul Feinberg

              Cool thanks for the input!

      • Hi Paul! I’m Dan will chime in when has time. By the looks of though, I’d say he used a blow torch to give some areas a burned look, and then stained with special walnut or a somewhat dark stain from Minwax. Not sure if the vinegar solution was used or not. Dan, if you see this we’d love to hear exactly how you got this finish, it looks great! – Pete

    • Looks amazing! Great job Dan!!

  • Nick Schuman

    Just finished the Table, it was the first piece i have ever built and with your plans it was easy, i did alter to make the table a bit wider and longer, and i left the cross braces off. It was a easy project and turned out great. wifes birthday present and she loves it. thanks so much Pete.


      Nick thanks for sharing this with us, you should be very proud of your creation! You did an amazing job and what a birthday gift, wow! Keep up the great work. Cheers!

  • Meaghan Falconer

    Hi pete , We made this table last month for our new home. However the table wobbles. For some reason the table top did not lay flat about an inch off. When we forced it and bolted it lifted the base and now wobbles. We put some sliders underneath two of the legs to keep it from wobbling. I would like to fix it though any suggestions as to what went wrong??

  • Panos

    Pete thanks for the plans. Made a set for my brothers back patio – pool side. I also made the benches out of 2×4 (to save some $$) as you recommended from Anna White. Still trying to get better at finishing. We used semi transparent deck stain and coated it with spar urethane. Anyway, wanted to say thanks. Your site rocks. Here are some pics…


      Wow – what an excellent outdoor piece, I love how this turned out! Thanks for sharing these photos Panos. I think the finish looks great, keep up the amazing work. Cheers from Montana!

  • Jared Frechette

    Just finished mine, first furniture piece. I gave it a removable top because I am military and move a lot.


      Wow – this looks amazing Jared, thanks for sharing! Keep up the great woodworking. Thanks for your service. Take care

    • Benjamin Driscoll

      Can you post a pic of the hardware that made it removable? Trying to do the same.

      • Sean Morgan

        Ben and Shawn, I built a similar table and make my top “removable” as well… I simply Drilled a few 1″ diameter holes in the corners of the horizontal 4x4s (drilled about 3/4″ deep with a forstner bit). Plan ahead before you drill so your dowels will be in the middle of one of the table top boards; Not on a seam. Then I glued in a 1.5″ long, 1″ diameter dowel (so 3/4″ of an inch was showing). I placed the tabletop in position on the table base and marked where the dowels hit the table top. Then I Drilled 3/4″ deep 1.125″ holes in the table (to give me a little extra wiggle room). The table top simply sits down on the base (un glued) and can be removed if needed. The weight of the table top holds it down just fine. Obviously you need to start with a very flat table top and flat table base, but I am assuming you figured that out ahead of time.

    • shawnb

      great looking piece jared. question how did you do the removable top. id love any info you can give

  • Eric Gonzales

    Just finished my new table! Thank you so much Pete!! Love your videos!


      Wow, that looks amazing! I love the color you chose to paint the legs of the bench, great work – keep it up! Cheers

    • Kendal Sager

      Beautiful colors! What stain did you use for the top?

  • Ty Frith

    Hey Pete!

    How critical are the 45 degree braces underneath the table? reason I ask is I have built the table and had cut these with a saw I rented (and since returned).. but they don’t fit. Wondering if I can get away without them?


  • Eric Gonzales

    Pete! Great job on the build. I am about to make my own table using your video as a guide. I want to use your vinegar/wool stain. How many wool squares do you use vs. white vinegar? Do you close the mason jar as it sits for days or do you leave it open and exposed to the air? Please advise.


      Eric, thanks for reaching out! About one steel wool square and put it in the jar, fill it with white vinegar. The longer you let it sit it will turn darker and darker, I always aim for an amber color. You do want it to be uncovered, as it releases a gas that needs to escape from the jar. Best of luck Eric. Cheers!

      • Eric Gonzales

        Thank you so much for responding! well crap yesterday I started put 4 steel wool pads and filled up the mason jar with white vinegar. Do you think this will mess up the stain process?

        Also, I noticed in your video that you used an extension when you screwed in your 2.5 in pocket screws. I purchased my screws from home depot and it came with a specific bit to screw the star head. Where can i find an extension that will work for these types of screws. Im sorry for this type of question, but this is my first wood project.

  • Tom

    Thanks, Pete, Ana White and Shanty 2 Chic! I made some modifications to personalize my table. We couldn’t be happier!


      Looks great Tom, wow!! Keep up the good work, my friend. Cheers

  • Monica Poehner

    I’m wanting to make this table counter height. Would I do this by adding length to the legs for an overall height of 35-36″? I know this will change the location of the crossbeams in the base…any suggestions?


      Monica, yes that would be your best bet. Although it will change that location, it’ll be easy to find the new location for crossbeam. For purposes of strength, etc this is your best bet! Thanks for asking. Cheers

  • Brad Bihun

    Hello Pete,

    What do you think about base being shortened so that you could fit chairs and add more space for people to sit at either end of the table?

    How much do you think you could shorten it without losing any stability?




      Hey Brad, I think there is always room for customizations and you have a great idea here! I personally wouldn’t drop it anymore than 6″ down from these dimensions, just to ensure stability. Best of luck and would love to see some final photos! Cheers

  • Daniel

    Pete do you have dimensions for the bench? I imagine it’s same angled cuts but not sure a good width for it. Thanks in advance.


      Hey Daniel, thanks for reaching out! I went off of Ana White’s plans for farmhouse benches, only modifying a few things. Here’s her plans:
      I find 18″ tall by 14 1/2″ wide by 69″ long to be the best fit for my farmhouse table. I also angle the legs similar to farmhouse table. Best of luck! Cheers

  • Ryan

    What type of screws does everyone use ? I didn’t want to use galvanized ones because of the chemicals they use to make them. Any suggestions or does it not matter ?


      Ryan, galvanized screws are the most commonly used here, but you could use lag bolts or some type of untreated bolt instead! Cheers!

      • Ryan

        Thank you for the quick response. After i thought about this more. The screws will be covered by some kind of poly anyways. I was just concerned when i was at the hardware store and saw a big warning on the box saying — chemicals used to make these screws may cause cancer

  • Robby Burrage

    Here’s a couple pictures of the table I built with your plans, it turned out great and the Mrs. loves it. I’ve already had several of her friends asking for me to make them one.


      Robby, that turned out great! Very impressive man, keep up the great work! Cheers

  • Nick Robichaud

    Hi Pete, love the website! I’ve already built the 2×4 barstools and a version of this table for my parents and they came out awesome. Last night I was reading a few fine woodworking blogs warning not to use contraction grade lumber for furniture because the moisture content will make it eventually warp and twist if the piece is inside. I started getting really worried about the fate of my projects- is this something you’ve ever run into? And if so is there a way to avoid it? Thanks for listening, your site has really inspired me!

  • Eddie Alberton

    Do you have plans for the benches??? Just finished the table.. Not perfect but RUSTIC right…lol I like it but wife wants a bench.. Note to self when cutting 4×4 12 in Chop saw it much better than 10in..

    • Hi Eddie! Great work on the table!! – Ana has the plans for the benches over at:×4-truss-benches — You may need to modify them a bit to fit your table. I like to have 2 inches between each end so they are easy to slide in and out. (so a total of about 4 inches less then the space between the left and right legs of the table.

  • tonloco

    This is my first wood cutting project. I am building a cafe/bar, and doing the majority of the work myself to save money, it’s been a great learning experience and a ton of fun. Still needs some sanding and finish, but thought I would post a pic of my progress. My base has modified dimensions to account for casters, that way I can mop the floor easily. I also built 6 smaller 24×30 table tops, some out of older salvaged wood from the previous business, that I am going to mount to pedestal bases for 2 person tables. Did some serious bull nose to the edges so that it would be safer for children in the restaurant. Thanks for the excellent website and giving me the confidence to do this aspect of the buildout myself.

  • Bradley

    pete can you use any other screw instead of the torq screw? and do you need a kreg jig

  • Bradley

    how much would this cost all up

  • Raquel Cobos

    Hi from the sunny Catalonia!
    thanks so much for your inspiration Pete, your video was so helpfull! It has been my first ever wood project, and i’m having so much fun building it! The table is not yet finished, but it already looks so great!
    thanks once again to share the plans and to be so inspiring with your lovely projects!

    • That table is looking great! Nice work Raquel!

  • Jesse Johnston

    Do you have any examples of the Steel wool and vinegar on white pine? I’ve already purchased and am cutting my wood for a project, but would like it to darken up. Any thoughts?

    • Hi Jesse,

      I don’t have any photos on hand right now of it on white pine. It barely reacted with the white pine and so I ended up staining it after the experiment. You could try on a scrap board, but I don’t think it will get as dark as you’d like. So you might look into using a stain like Provincial, Special Walnut, or Walnut (minwax) — depending on the color you like. Good luck!

      • ZachJex

        The vinegar reacts with tannins in the wood (white pine doesn’t have much). To combat this, you could try rubbing on a mixture of black tea which will add tannins to the wood before putting the vinegar mix on. Good luck!

        • DIYPETE

          Thanks for the input here Zach! Thats a great recommendation. I know that spent coffee grounds can give a natural staining, darkening effect as well. Cheers!

          • ZachJex

            Thanks Pete. Here’s a pic of a 25×50 table I stained with that technique. Rub on black tea, let dry, then the steel wool/vinegar mixture thy had been sitting about 24 hours. Created some amazing colors and looks like it’s been out in the world! (Has not been sealed, which will pop those colors!)


            • Jon Kocheran

              I love these colors. Is that doug fir? I would like to have my table lighter like this. Did the poly darken it?

  • Lucy Rossiter

    I use spruce and fir for this project and am having a hard finding 4×4 pieces are not split or don’t split after they are cut. What do you do to ensure the legs do not split?

    • Hi Lucy! If the splitting is on the end of the board you’ll want to cut that off and use the best part of the board. If the supplier has bad 4×4 wood though, you’ll want to look for another lumber yard b/c you should be able to cherry pick and find some good ones if the supplier is descent. You will want to pre-drill pilot holes into the wood. This will eliminate the splitting when putting in screws. Hope that helps!

  • Tommy Fortuna

    Thanks for all your help Pete!! Your plans for this table worked out perfect. I didn’t own any tools before this project and I have never built anything in my entire life. Now I can’t wait to start my next project, I think I have the bug!

    • That looks so well done. Clean and I like the stain choice! Congrats on your first big build. Can’t wait to see what you make next Tommy. Thanks so much for sharing and please post photos of your next projects!! Cheers – Pete

  • Larry

    Hey Pete! Just discovered your website on Friday, and this is sitting in my house Monday morning. Thank you for how-to video – it inspired me to build my very first piece of DIY furniture. I took some liberties with the base in order to fit my style and decor, but the top is unmodified. I’ll try to follow up once it is finished. Thanks again!

    • Hey Larry!!! Nice work and you are doing an amazing job on your first piece. I can’t wait to see the finished table! Congrats on a job well done. I’m so happy the website has been an inspiration to build 🙂 And I love the metal you incorporated into the base. Looks great! Cheers! Pete

  • chris

    Hey everyone. I may have missed this. I’m new to wood working and excited about doing this piece, but what are the dimensions used for the benches?

  • Matt Hardin

    Much like some others on Douglas Fir is hard to come by in my region. Has anyone tried steel wool stain on red/white oak or spruce? I figured I would ask before testing on a strap piece. Thanks for feedback!

    • Haven’t yet Matt. Let me know what you find out if you get to it before I do 🙂 Cheers!

  • Bradley Locke

    Hey Pete! … Thank you very much for the plans/video. It was a lot of help in the process of working on this project. This was my first real project that I have completed and has inspired me to do more projects in the near future. Here are a few pictures to share.

    • Bradley! Wow, your table turned out great! Thanks so much for sharing the project photos and I’m so glad it went smoothly 🙂 Keep on building and I can’t wait to see what you make next! Cheers – Pete

    • Matt Hardin

      Bradley…what type of wood did you use?

      • Bradley Locke

        Matt … I use construction grade pine from my local Lowe’s store. I will say though you have to cherry pick out the boards that have as little bowing or warping to them as possible. I used two coats of special walnut minwax stain and two coats of minwax polyurethane to give it the appearance as you see in the pictures. Hope this helps.

        • Matt Hardin

          Thanks…table looks great!

        • Thanks for sharing all the helpful info Bradley! I definitely agree about cherry picking the boards 🙂 Can’t wait to see what you build next. Cheers man – Pete

  • Tommy Fortuna

    Hey Pete, I’m having a real tough time finding the 6″in and 4.5″in torq screws. I can’t even seem to find them online. Do you know where I may be able to order them from?

    • Hey Tommy! They are hard to find at lowes/home depot and many don’t carry them unfortunately. Do you have an Ace Hardware or a local lumber yard/contractor supply store? I’ve been able to find them at those types of places. Good luck!

  • Rachel

    Just a quick question. Did you use pine or just premium fir available at Home Depot/Lowes, etc? Did you allow the wood to sit in your house for an extended period of time to adjust to the humidity conditions in your home, or did you just go for it and starting building as soon as you had gathered all the lumber? Thank you.

    • Hi Rachel! I did use construction grade kiln-dried fir from Home Depot and let it sit/acclimate prior to building.

  • Dusty Purcell

    rookie question… are the posts measurements truly 4×4 or are they actually 3.5×3.5?

  • Clark Ross

    Great write-up and very helpful video Pete, thanks! I was wondering, after reading through a few comments on the Shanty2Chic site (originators of the plan, given to Ana White), if you had any issues with the five 2x10s (that form the tabletop) expanding and/or contracting as a result of the humidity and consequently affecting the evenness of the breadboards that you initially cut to fit that width with? I have little experience woodworking and I am concerned with putting all this work and money (albeit relatively cheap) into something that, according to the pros, by not taking the mortise and tenon approach, is doomed from the get-go. How is your table faring thus far, and your thoughts on the potential naysayers? Thanks in advance for your time!

  • patrick

    Here is the final product!

    • patrick

      I also just made some countertops for anybody who wants some tips /plans !

      • CJ Travis

        Great work, Patrick. Was wondering, what type of finish did you use on this table? Is that a dark walnut stain?

        • patrick

          I used 3 coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urthane with Clear Satin. For the stain, we followed Ana White’s rustic stain but made it a little darker with an extra coat of Special Walnut. Other than that, we followed those steps almost identically. Here is the link for the stain:

      • Very cool! What kind of countertops?

        • patrick

          Thanks! Countertops were made of common boards and 3/4 ” plywood below them. Surprisingly very simple to do

    • Looks awesome Patrick, NICE JOB man!

    • Kaitlin

      Hey Patrick did you use a stain or is this the steel wool vinegar solution? I just completed my table and i’m trying to find a stain that I like.

      • DIYPETE

        If I had to guess, Kaitlin, I’d say he used a Walnut stain here. Best of luck!

  • Bruce (@Brudaddy)

    Pete, why did you go with the torque screws rather than the 2 1/2″ Kreg HD screws that Ana used in her plans? Was it because you built a wider table top? I’m curious.

    • Hey Bruce!

      I didn’t have the HD jig at the time 🙂 Otherwise I probably would have used the 2 1/2 inch HD screws. That would would be why. Cheers!

      • Bruce (@Brudaddy)

        Cool. Thanks!

      • Bruce (@Brudaddy)

        So, is the HD Jig something special/different than the one you used in the video? I’m unfamiliar. I plan on making a version of this coming up this summer.

  • Chad Brandon Campbell

    I grew up just north of Longview as moved to Houston about 8 years ago. What are you interested in building?

  • Monica Srey

    Hi there, I was hoping to make modifications to this table plan and am crossing my fingers that you would help me? I was hoping to make an 8 ft by 3.5 ft table. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks so much!

  • Eduardo

    Thank you so much for the plans, very easy and clear instruccions. I live in Chile, so thanks to the internet too. Here is a photo of the table i made using your plans as a guide. I used douglas fir for the bases and white pine for the top of both table and benches. You where right, the white pine doesnt react very much whith the vinager and wool, but in the end i kinf of like the contrast. Thank you again! Be well

    • All the way from Chile, that’s awesome!

      Your table turned out great Eduardo. Thank you so much for sharing! Can’t wait to see what you build next.

      Chile is on my list of places to visit someday. I hope all is well! – Pete

  • Ivy H

    Hi! Your table is beautiful and I LOVE the finish! I’ve been eyeing this table on Ana White’s website for awhile now but have worried about the gaps in the table top. I have three little kiddos who spill stuff on the table all the time. How would you recommend sealing the gaps so that it doesn’t drip through or damage the table? I’d love for it to be completely flat and easy to clean. Silicone? Wood filler? Poly?

    • Hi Ivy! Without using a planer and jointer you’ll have gaps and I don’t unfortunately have a great recommendation on filling them. Many people use placemats to help. Clear silicon is an option to try — or a flexible wood filler. Can anyone who’s done this please chime in? Thanks and good luck with the build Ivy! – Pete

      • Cody Katen

        Not sure how well this would work, but one idea if you have a table saw and a friend handy is to run your boards through to just take off the 1/8th inch rounded corners. This should give each board a nice flat top to bottom edge and create a nice clean joint. I made a coffee table once where I had to cut some boards down to size to fit and they joined up nicely…you will however lose the grooves snd it can be difficult to tell the individual boards apart.

  • Guest

    Hey hey Pete, do you have a complete cut list specific to your table or do I just not see it? I noticed Ana’s cut list but I wanted to know what was specifically different about yours. Thanks.

  • patrick

    Hey hey Pete, do you have a complete cut list specific to your table or do I just not see it? Thanks.

    • Hey Pat! I unfortunately don’t have a complete cut list at this time. That is a great idea to create though. Thanks!

      • patrick

        Not necessary anymore, Pete! The table is complete and it was a complete success. As a first time DIYer the experience was great and everything was super easy to follow. Thanks !

        • patrick

          Nuff said

          • Jeff Auvenshine

            Hi Patrick,
            Your table turned out very nice. I’d like to know how it is holding up. As I’ve been preparing to make one of my own I’ve seen some concern about using pocket screws to attach the breadboard end due to wood naturally contracting and expanding causing the butt joints to crack. I’ve seen suggestions to use a tenon and mortise joint for more strength. This would also keep the boards running lengthwise from cupping. What are your thoughts?

  • Nick Milan

    Anyone have any problems with getting chairs at the end of the table? looks like there isnt much room for people sit there. Any suggestions to mod the project if this is a issue? Going to be starting the project in the next couple of days.


    • Mo JW

      Hi, did you ever get any suggestions for that issue? I want to start this project but, I would like space for chairs at the ends as well.

      • DIYPETE

        Nick and Mo JW, you’ll just want to shorten the base length to fix this issue. If you’d like chairs on the end, I’d recommend shortening the base length by at least 10″ on both sides, so 20″ total. Cheers and best of luck.

  • Dustin Sims

    Solid true 2in cherry. Thanks for the plans.

    • WOW!! Dustin, you did a fantastic job. It’s so fun to see how you turned a cherry tree from the forest into a beautiful piece of furniture. I’d love to share this with others on the Facebook page with your permission 🙂 Or feel free to post to the page and I’ll re-share it for ya. Cheers and enjoy that gorgeous table! – Pete


      Just a heads up that I posted this to the Facebook page, Had to re-share this! Once again, great work. Cheers

    • Kitsi Redd Garmon

      Did you use just the vinegar/steel method to darken this cherry? Or did you use tea or a stain? Thanks!

  • nothing3

    what plane did you use for the edges that werent quite flush? ive never used a plane before and idk which one to buy

    • I used a basic hand planer. You can pick them up for about twenty bucks at the hardware store 🙂

  • Dustin Sims

    I have true 2″ cherry and 4×4’s in the kiln. I’m going to use your plans! I’ll keep you updated. I might make a youtube video of the build.

    • That is going to turn out gorgeous Dustin! Wish I had cherry out here to build one too! Would love to see a video of your build. Good luck and most importantly have fun Dustin!

      • Sheldon Ross

        Intermountain wood in Belgrade has 8/4 cherry. A full table out of it would cost a pretty penny, and weigh a ton though.

  • Dean

    Hi Pete,

    What size are the kreg pocket screws? The supplies say 2.5 inch, but the link states they are 1.25 inch?



    • Hi Dean! Sorry for the wrong link. Yes, they are all 2.5 inch kreg screws for the table top. Thanks for asking and letting me know about the link Dean!

  • Ty Frith

    Finished as an Xmas present for my Mom, 10 ft table and 8 ft bench!! Thanks for the plans and inspiration Pete, cheers!

    • Ty Frith

      Ordered some awesome metal chairs for the side opposite the bench

    • Amazing Ty! Great work bud. I love it!

  • Erik Winebrenner

    Hey Pete, excellent write up and video! I was wondering if you could provide the measurements for your bench (specifically the 4×4 support beam). You said “I modified the width so they are a total of 69″ wide. Instead of using a 2×10 for the breadboards I use 2×8’s. Everything else was kept the same as Ana’s plans.” But in Ana’s plans, her support
    beam is 65″s so that doesn’t seem to add up in my head once you add the 4×4 ends on each side but the overhanging 1×8 breadboards. Thanks in advanced!!

  • joshua Thompson

    What type of 4×4 was used?

  • Duane

    This may be a dumb question but how long are the braces that go under the table (the ones cut at 45 degrees)? I looked over the instructions but could never find it.

  • Guest

    Here is a pic

  • Guest

    Here are a few pics

    • Great project photos! THANK YOU FOR SHARING 🙂

  • thereverendofficer

    I did the double patio chair as my first ever wood project. I LOVED
    IT… i really wanted to do a farmhouse table for our family, but the
    grooves made it impossible to do with 4 little kids as there would
    always be food in them. So I did the table but coated it with a very
    thick epoxy coating I found and put some pictures down before I did it. I
    took the design from the chairs, modified it to make it without the
    center piece and made one LONG bench with a back (a must for us) and connected a smaller bench without a back to it, making it a corner table. I made the table a little wider and just a hair longer to fit everything… We absolutely love it. It is amazing…. Only problem now, every wife in the church is sending her husband over to make one 🙂 Thank you so much for this website. The plans are great, but the videos are a lifesaver.

    • Hi! WOW, you did a great job and I love it. How rewarding to have it completed and so neat that all the husbands are inspired to build what you’ve built. That’s what is all about. Helping and inspiring others. NICE WORK. Keep on building and I’d love to see project photos of whatever you decide to make next! Feedback like yours is what keeps me pumping out project videos. THANK YOU! – DIY PETE

      • Lot’s of great project photos and I love the epoxy idea!

  • Thanks so much for the video and pictures! I’m going to ‘attempt’ to make one bench. I printed out the plans. We are going shopping tomorrow. My table is 110″ long w/leaf and 88″ w/o. So my plan is to make the bench 85″ (shortening the aprons an inch each) in-case we take out the leaf. Any tips for a first timer??

    • Hi Amber! You are going to have a great looking table! My tip would be to have fun with the project and to know that each project you do you’ll learn something new and improve your skills. If you run into questions along the way let me know. Good luck! – DIY PETE

  • Casey

    Thanks for the inspiration Pete! Here is how ours turned out; we modified it to fit our space better, it’s 6′ x 6′. Fun project!

    • Nice Work Casey! And I love how you did the base. Keep on building!! – DIY PETE

    • John Mangini

      Hey Casey, I am working on plans to make Pete’s design into a countertop height table. I love the idea of using this base. Do you have any specs on what you did for the bottom? Also, it looks like you put a nice heavy 4×6 legs on it instead of 4×4. Correct? It also looks like you have a frame under the top using 4×4’s. Is that all the way around? Let me know I’d love to find out more.

    • Tripp Howell

      Hi Casey, awesome looking table! Can you share a pic of the under side of the table? I’m trying to build a 5’x5′ table, and would like to build a base like this. Also, if you still have the measurements still, that’s be great to see 🙂


    • That is hard core!

  • Liberty with Vengeance

    Mr. Sveen, Trying to do this build. Is 25 3/8″ the correct Dimension for the legs? I cut them, stood them up with a 4×4 and a 2×4 on top and it seems pretty short. The legs on your table and Ana White’s look longer in the finished pictures.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Sorry for the delay. Did you cut them at 10 degrees and parallel to each other? I just double checked my measurements and I used the 25 and 3/8 cuts. Good luck with your table! – Pete

  • Patrick

    Not sure why it didn’t post the picture. Here it is.

    • Hey Patrick! Nice work man! Thanks for sharing the project photo and enjoy your new table!

  • Patrick

    Working in my table. It’s for my wife for our anniversary.

    • Heck yeah! How did it turn out Patrick??!!

      • Patrick

        Pete, it turned out great and my wife loved it. We hosted Christmas at our house this year and everyone complimented on the table. I built one bench and put a cushion on it and there will be chairs around the rest of the table. I don’t have a good photo of the finished look of our dinning room but here is an old one and he a close up of the table with our Christmas center-peices. I’ll try and get a better picture later.

        • Great work Patrick!

          • Patrick

            More pics for you.

            • Awesome, thanks for sharing Patrick! Nice work with the covered benches as well!

  • Jared Danford

    did you poly all of it including the base or just the top? thanks!

    • Hey Jared! I did 3 thin layers of poly on the top and one real quick coat on the legs/base. It’s not necessary but does give it a more finished look and makes the color pop a lot more. I’d recommend doing it on all the surfaces you can see.

  • Dwayne Coulson

    Pete, really want to build this for my deck. I am not crazy about tbhe benches, though. We have older folks that come over for cook outs. Any plans for similarly matching chairs, avialable?

    • Hey Dwayne! I unfortunately don’t have any plans at the moment but would recommend “googling” for simple 2×4 patio chairs or looking on Ana White’s website. I am working on a video showing how to make bar stools — coming in Episode 16 — which you could check out as soon as it’s up for ideas. You could simply modify them to fit the table.

  • Brian

    I see that you used Fir in your video. The local Lowe’s doesn’t carry Fir but they do have Pine and Whitewood. Not really sure what Whitewood is. I would like to get the same (or a similar) look as you got on yours. I see that you don’t suggest using Pine, what would you suggest I use?

    • Hi Brian! That’s ok that they do not have fir. You can use Whitewood/ any type of pine. I know the vinegar/steel wool reacts well with the fir. I would buy a board of each type and see how well it the solution reacts with it. All woods will vary in how they react with the solution. If you simply plan on staining and not using the solution then feel free to use any type.

      • Cody Katen

        Brian, if you have to use pine, go ahead and brew some strong tea before hand and rub the tea solution on your pine. Let it soak in and you will give the pine the tannins necessary for the vinegar/steel wool solution to react with. It won’t give you the exact same finish but should be close. As always, find some scrap pine and test it out first before you build to see if you like the finish.

        • Hi Cody! Thanks so much for chiming in and for the great advice. I appreciate it!

        • Landon

          I am having the same issue, finding Doug Fir so I’m thinking of experimenting with the tea and vinegar/wool solution. When you say strong tea are you referring to black tea? Also how long do you let the tea soak before applying the solution?

  • Max

    what are the odds we can get a “shopping list” (if you already have one) to get all the material in one swoop instead of my normal routine of going back and forth to the big box or lumber yard. It would be ideal to have a list of lengths of pieces needed.

    e.g. – 4 (4 x 4 x 16) – 2 – 73″ length support base
    2 – 43″ width top support base
    4 – 25 3/8″ for height support base (cut at 10 degree)
    2 – 36 1/4″ for width support base (cut at 10 degree)

    etc, etc… – just to ensure I don’t miss anything…

  • Michael Vooris

    Hi Pete: Love the table. Is it possible to do another layer of a different stain after the vinegar/steel wool stain to get the distressed looko and also add a different color?

    • Hi Michael! You certainly can do a layer of stain over the vinegar/steel wool application. I’ve done it plenty of times. Always test on a scrap piece of wood prior to doing the actual table to get an idea of how it will look. Good luck and please post a photo of the finished table, I’d love to see how it turns out! – DIY Pete

  • Jonathan

    What kind of lumber was used in your project here?


    good job like the bar table and wester table to show more please

    • Feel free to check out the video if you haven’t. If you are talking about the concrete / cedar bar, I have free plans for that available which are in depth. Have a great day!

  • Eric

    will that steel wool and vinegar solution work on most woods? Or does it need to be a particular kind of wood for it to work?

    • Quite a few and the tannins in each variety will react differently. So definitely test each type of wood prior to doing the entire piece.

  • Michael Heuer

    Can I use 5 in screws instead of the 4 1/2?

    • Phil

      I couldn’t find 4.5″ screws anywhere so used 4″ screws – readily available and cheap at HD – and just counter sunk them a half inch

      • Thanks for chiming in Phil! Glad the 4″ screws worked for ya. Cheers – Pete

  • Tim

    Pete – this looks great and I’m going to give it a try myself. You mentioned that the vinegar/steel wool finish shouldn’t be used with Pine since the wood will not darken much. Would you expect the same result if working with spruce (I’m on a tight budget, haha)? Thanks much.

    • Hey Tim! The vinegar/steel wool reacts differently with each type of wood because of the tannins in the wood. So I know it reacts well with Doug fir as that’s what we have out here. White pine around here doesn’t seem to take as well — but I’d recommend testing out a few scrap pieces of the spruce to see how it goes! If it doesn’t react how you’d like you can always do a stain and it will still look really nice. Let me know what you decide and how it goes!

  • Michael Heuer

    Can you provide the shop list and cut list for your modifications from Ana’s site?

  • Kent

    Pete, by any chance can you share the plans for the benches?

    • Hi Kent! You betcha. The bench plans came from×4-truss-benches — I modified total width just a bit to fit my longer table. I’d recommend having about 2 inches of wiggle room between the side of each bench and the 4×4 on the table. So if the distance between 4×4’s is 60 inches, make the benches 56. We love the benches and they are very solid. Good luck!

  • Justin

    Could I cut the 4x4s with a 10″ miter saw? Also can I use an older Kreg Jig model?

    • Hi Justin! Yes, a 10″ miter saw will cut a 4×4 in one swipe. Second, I’m not sure which model of Kreg Jig you have, but I’d say it should most likely work for the project. Good luck!

  • Peter Dallman

    Hey Pete..Building two tables and benches begining of June…Judging from the pictures on your build it looks like you might have extended the base farther out to support the breadboard ends than either of the tables on Ana’s or Shanty’s site. Is this true?
    P.S. Going back to an earlier question. I will be going with green (non kiln dried) 4×4 posts..What would you recomend I paint the cut ends with to help prevent checking or twisting?

  • Kelli Delahousie

    Hi Pete,
    My husband started putting the clear coat on our table and as it dried it started cracking and peeling. It didn’t stick to the table top at all, it just wipes off. We used a steel wool/ vinegar stain. The table was clean and dry. We used Minwax Polyurethane Oil Modified Water Based. Is this our problem?

    • Hi Kelli! Interesting, I’m a little curious as to what is causing this. I have never used the Minwax poly oil modified water based poly. I’m guessing this could have something to do with it unfortunately. You may need to sand off the current poly as best as possible and try it again with either a pure waterbased or a pure oil based poly. I feel that you’ll have a better outcome with pure oil based as the colors will be more vibrant. Just apply in a well ventilated area and plan to wait a bit longer for the poly to dry between coats. I’m going to get some of the modified poly from Minwax that you used to experiment with and see why it happened. In the mean time, do a little sanding and then the oil based finish. That’d be my recommendation. Perhaps do a small sample area to make sure this remedy will work. Cheers and good luck. You’ll have to send me a photo of the finished table! – Pete

      • Kelli Delahousie

        Thanks for the quick reply. My husband got to looking at the instructions on the can and it says not to sand wood with steel wool prior to application. There must be something about steel wool that causes a reaction with this stuff. Too bad, 1 QT of this stuff was about $20. Lesson learned. We will def. post pictures when the table is done.

        • You bet Kelli! Bummer about the first poly but I’m sure your second round will be a good one. Enjoy your new table and thanks so much for checking out the project video and my site. Cheers from Montana 🙂 – Pete

  • George

    Pete, here are a couple of pics.

    • Nice work George!

    • OronaFalento

      You can use WoodPrix, it has the best handbooks and ready instructions. You can learn much from them and make it yourself.

      • Sherryl Keith

        that’s right.

  • George

    Hi Pete! In the process of applying second coat of poly on my table. Mine is kinda big (5×8). Quick question: Did you use any wood filler in the spaces between the boards of the table top? If so, what kind did you use? P.S. My wife loves the table……going to try the coffee table next….Thanks for the detailed instructions.

    • Hi George! Great to hear from you and congrats on building the table! I haven’t used a filler between the boards on my tables. If you did, you’d want to find a filler that was fairly flexible. I don’t have a great recommendation — otherwise I’d name a type and brand. Sorry I’m not much help there –but enjoy your new table and great work on building it. Looking forward to seeing your coffee table as well! – Cheers – Pete

    • George

      Hey Pete, could you make this:

      This is for a Kamado Joe. Would love to you make a video of this one!!! Love your stuff! Have a great day Pete!

  • Tim B.

    Hey Pete…my wife and I really like the look of this table. Thank you for providing such detailed instructions and pictures. My question is this…our space is too small for a full-sized version of this table. If we wanted to make this a square table, would the supports need adjustment?

    Thanks for your help!

    • Hey Tim! The one thing I’d think about is how many people you want to be able to sit at the table. There is a lot of room on the side, but you might want to adjust the ends so the people would have a little more leg room while sitting at the ends. If you keep the same width (5 boards) — you’ll be able to keep everything the same on the supports, but shorten up the 2 side rails. Making adjustments (no matter what you decide to do) is pretty simple for this table. You might want to check out Ana’s plans (which I have a link to in the post) — as her table is a bit smaller. Good luck!

  • Anders

    I would like to use this table in the garden, but then shouldn’t there be some space for the wood to expand?

    • Hi Anders, sounds like you have a fun project in store for the garden. I’d recommend using cedar if going outdoors — otherwise to use 2-3 coats of spar varnish on the table and to re-seal it once each spring. I haven’t had a problem with the wood expanding on the tables I’ve built using the kiln dried pine. Thanks for the great question!

  • Peter Dallman

    Hi Pete, I wanted to increase the length of the table to 96 inches. I can do this by increasing the 2×10’s to 78 inches from your 67″, then the breadboard ends would make it a full 96″. Would I need to alter anything about the base other than increasing the support bpards on the underside of the tabletop? I guess I’m talking about the angle cuts of the legs etc.

    • Hi Peter, I kept all the angles the same and did not make other changes besides what you mentioned. Let me know how it goes and good luck!

      • Peter Dallman

        Thanks Pete! Last question….I hope. Looks like the 4×4’s “kiln dried” are way more expensive than the standard 4×4 posts than my local lumber yard. Is it important for the base 4×4’s to be kiln dried?

        • Hey Peter! With the big price difference I’d go with the non kiln dried 4x4s. They may shrink a tiny bit but I wouldn’t be worried about it for the posts. After cutting each post to length you could always paint the ends to help prevent them from checking. To sum it up, I’d say you’ll be just fine with the non-kiln dried posts. Send me a photo when you are done! Can’t wait to see your table. Cheers – DIY PETE

          • Peter Dallman

            Table number 1 made..It was a lot of fun. I altered the table a little because I was worried about someone (like me) pushing myself up on one of the breadboard ends and pulling those srews out. I used a 2×10 for the breadboards. So, I added a 2×4 skirt around the table with a 2″ reveal, it only really covered up the butt end of the cross support 4×4 which I wasn’t crazy about seeing either. I also deleted the top 4×4 post that wasn’t seen. Now I’m stressing about the vinegar/steel wool stain….
            On to assembling the second table!!

            • Nice job Peter! It is looking great and I love the ideas you came up with for the modifications. The apron/skirt was a great ay to do it! Good luck with the staining. The vinegar/steel wool reacts with all wood differently so do some tests first on scrap pieces to see how you like it and how strong you want to mix it. Have fun assembling the second table as well. Cheers and thanks so much for sharing your project! – Pete