If you are wanting to build a great looking double chair bench with a table for your patio you've come to the right place. I bought a home late last year and didn't have any patio furniture whatsoever. My dad had built a beautiful double chair bench with table for their home and so I credit him with design help and the inspiration to build my own. This setup is perfect for enjoying a relaxing evening out on the deck with friends or family. I built my chairs out of cedar because cedar does not rot and stands up against the outdoor elements quite well. You can use pine as long as it is painted or coated with a thick finish of poly. You can download the plans for this project by clicking here ( DIY Double Chair Plans Version 1 -). I also have an updated Double chair version 2 with plans and a video if you want to check that out.
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Dewalt 20 volt Drill: http://amzn.to/2CJrLUV
Dewalt Jig Saw: http://amzn.to/2FxBpNo
Dewalt Orbital Sander: http://amzn.to/2FxsdbV
Approximate Cost of Lumber – $125
Step 1 – Gather Your Materials
Click HERE or on the image below for the downloadable Double Chair Bench Plans. These plans have been free for many years, we started a “pay what you want structure” and you can pick anywhere from $1.00 to $10.00. This goes to help cover our software costs to make and distribute plans. Thanks for understanding. Cheers! – Pete
The shopping list is provided in the plans. The project is made out of 2×6, 1×6, 2×4, and 1×4 boards. All of the supplies can be found at your local Home Depot building supply store.
Step 2 – Make Your Cuts
Cut each piece on your miter saw. For all angles in this project, set the saw to 15 degrees. If you don't have a miter saw you can find one here. I use a Dewalt 12″ miter saw for all of my projects.
Step 3 – Cut the Notch and Rounded Corners
Use a jigsaw to cut out the notch on the two front legs. The 2×6 piece will eventually rest in the notch. Measure 9 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the 2×4 front leg and mark. Measure 1 1/2″ back (depth). Then measure from your nine-inch mark up 5 1/2″ and make one more mark. Connect the lines and cut out your notch on both pieces.
Next, grab a roll of tape to make your rounded corners for the arms and back supports of the double chair bench with a table. Do a rounded corner for the two outside armrests, and for both outside pieces of the tabletop. Create rounded corners for the top of the backrest supports as well(Part H). Cut with a jigsaw and use an orbital sander to smooth the edges. Check out photos in later parts of the project to see the rounded edges.
Step 3 – Assemble Both Sides
As shown in the video, attach the front and rear leg together on the top with the arm support 2×4. Measure 11″ back from the rear of the front leg and put a mark. Then line up the rear leg so that the 15 degree angle sits flush with the arm support. Attach with 2 1/2″ Deck Screws. Use the star (torx) deck screws instead of philips because they are much easier to use and don't strip. Only attach the two legs to the arm support in this step. We'll get to the lower cross support later. Measure 11 inches from the back of the front leg to the front of the back leg. Flush it up with the horizontal 2×4 and attach with 3 screws. Here is another look at how the sides will look when completed.
Step 4 – Attach sides with 2×6
To attach the sides, drill 3 holes from the back of the front legs into the 2×6. Make sure to drill pilot holes.
Step 5 – Attach rear 2×4
Measure 8 inches up from the bottom of the rear leg. Please see the video if you have questions. This is one of the most tricky steps to try and explain. Use three 3″ Deck Screws to attach. Fasten to both sides. (Drill from the outside leg into the 2×4 rear support.)
Step 6 – Attach Cross Supports
You will attach the cross supports on each end to the chair sides and rear support. The two middle supports will attach with 2 screws from the front and to the rear support as well.
Fasten the cross support with 2 or three screws to the chair sides as shown. You'll notice the back of the cross support (with the 15 degree angle) sits flush on the rear support and the inside angle extends about 1/4 inch past the rear support.
Attach each cross support. For the middle 2 you can drive 2 screws in from the front side. (Through the 2×6 and into the cross support.). To attach the rear side of the support drill a pilot hole through the side of the cross support at an angle down into the rear support. It will keep it in place and later steps will solidify the joint.
Step 7 – Attach Back Supports
Fasten to the sides with 2.5″ screws. Flush up the bottom with the 15 degree angle. The upper support arm bottom corner will be flush with the back side of the backrest support.
Download the Double Chair PLANS HERE!
Step 8 – Attach Chair and Backrest 1×4 Wooden Slats
Attach the front slat so that it hangs over the front 2×6 by 3/4″. Then attach the rear slat so it touches the two backrest supports. Attach the remaining 3 slats and space them evenly apart. (About 1/4 or so). These boards are 20.5″ wide.
Next, attach the backrest slats. These boards are 19″ wide. Attach the top board first to help square up the backrest supports. Then attach the bottom slat. Finally, attach the remaining boards and space evenly.
Step 8 – Attach Center Table Supports
Attach the two 14″ 1×4 slats to the front 2×6 using 2″ deck screws. Then connect the two on top with a 17″ long 2×4.
Attach the 15.5″ 1×4 slats to for the back table support. Flush the bottom of the slat up with the bottom of the 2×4 rear support. Then connect the tops of the slats with two 17″ 2×4's. The second 2×4 is used to connect the chairs to the table for extra support.
Step 9 – Attach each Chair to the Table
Attach the two middle backrest supports to the 17″ 2×4 table support. This will strengthen the entire piece of furniture. Use two 3″ deck screws on each side.
Step 10 Attach Arms and Table Top
For the table, attach the 3 1×6 boards with 2″ deck screws. Space evenly apart. The edges will line up flush with the 17″ 2×4 table supports underneath.
Step 11 – Fill Screw Holes
Fill all the screw holes with wood putty. The screws need to be countersunk in order to fill them.
Spread putty into the screw hole with your finger. Then let dry. You will sand off the excess later.
Once the putty is dry ( a few hours ), sand around each hole to clean off excess putty. Once sanded, the filled holes will look like the photo below.
Step 12 – Prep for finishing
Use a broom or rag to clean off sawdust prior to finishing. Here is a photo of what it will look like prior to the urethane finish.
Step 13 – Apply Finish
I like to use Minwax Spar Urethane. It enhances the natural beauty of cedar and protect the wood against the outdoor elements.
Apply 2 coats of Urethane with a brush. Let the second coat dry completely (6-12 hours), then lightly sand the armrests, table, and areas you come in contact with when sitting (chair slats). This light sanding with 220 grit paper will remove any dust particles that settled in the first coat. Next, take a clean cloth and wipe a thin coat of poly on all the areas you sanded. This will give you a nice smooth finish. Once dry, enjoy your new furniture and have a barbecue!
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Thanks so much for checking out my tutorial! I hope it inspires you to build some patio furniture and that you enjoy it for years to come. If you run into questions make sure to check out the video at the top of the post and to comment below with any questions. Good luck and have fun!! – DIY PETE
Download the DOUBLE CHAIR PLANS HERE!
PS: I created an updated version more recently with built in storage and wider seats. Here is a link to to the Double Chair version 2 web tutorial. I have Double Chair version 2 plans and a video below for it as well!