Tools for Do it Yourselfers

How to Build a 4×4 Farmhouse Table

tablenew Building and creating with my hands has always been a passion of mine and something I love sharing with others. When I stumbled upon plans for the table I was thrilled and wanted to create the most in-depth video online sharing how to build a farmhouse table.

I’ve built a number of tables over the last few years, but this seems to be one of my favorites because of its bold looks. It’s built out of 4×4, 2×4, and 2×10 lumber. The large beams give this table a bold look and make the table as solid as a tank. This farmhouse table build will score you a number of brownie points with your lady.

The original plans for the project are from Ana White’s website, who has hundreds of free plans available. I modified the table by making the table wider and longer. The larger size provides more space to spread out and for food or a centerpiece in the middle. This table has been a conversation piece and has worked great for our dinner parties and meals. This farmhouse table will last for years and will be able to be passed on to family members for generations. Whitney from Shanty-2-Chic also has a post about creating this table and she collaborated with Ana-White on her project.

farmhouse-table-instructions In-Depth Farmhouse Table Video Tutorial


The complete plans can be found on Ana’s site and there is a downloadable PDF. Ana White and Whitney from Shanty-2-Chic partnered on creating the plans. The project is fairly simple and will take about a day to assemble + finishing time.

Modifications: The only modifications I made to Ana’s plans were to the overall size. I used an additional 2×10 to increase the width of the table. I cut the table top boards a little longer and enlarged the width of the table base. I show the table top modifications in drawings below. Feel free to modify your table from the plans to best suit your needs.

Tools Needed

Power Drill
12″ Miter Saw
Kreg Jig
Orbital Sander
Tape Measure
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection

2 1/2 inch Kreg Screws - Need 1 Box
6 inch Torq Screws (for attaching 4×4’s to each other) – Need about 40 or so
4.5 inch Torq Screws (for attaching 4×4 top braces to table top) Need about 20
2.5 inch Torq Screws (for attaching 2×4 top braces to table top) Need about 20
Stain ( or White Vinegar / Steel Wool )

* The 6 inch and 4.5 inch screws can sometimes be difficult to find. I’d recommend going to a contractor supply or local building / lumber store. Only select Home Depot and Lowes stores carry them.

MaterialsSee Plans here (look at my modification diagrams to see how my table differs from Ana’s plans.)

DIY-Pete Wood for the Project

You’ll need to buy 4×4, 2×10, and 2×4 boards for this project. These boards can be found at your local lumber yard. Take your time to find quality boards that are straight and have little warp.

Farm table supplies The Build

First, I built the table top out of 2x10s. I used 5 2×10’s for the main part of the table and a 2×10 for each breadboard end.  Ana’s plans call for four main boards, but I wanted a little larger area to spread out. I used a 12″ miter saw to make all of the cuts. I cut the 5 boards to 69 inches long.

farmhouse-table-plans Here is a look at the table top. A 2×10 board is actually 9 1/4 inches wide. The total dimensions of the top are  46 1/4 inches by 87 1/2 inches.

Click Photo to Enlarge

Line all of the boards up and mark where you’d like to drill pocket holes. I typically space the pocket holes about 8  to 10 inches apart.
DIY PETE Set the Kreg Jig at the 1 1/2 inch setting for the stock thickness. (My video says 2 1/2 inch setting but I meant to say 1 1/2 inch.)

How-to-drill-pocket-holes You’ll attach each board using the 2.5 inch long Kreg Jig screws. It helps to clamp the boards to each other and use a little body weight to get the boards even with each other.

how-to-make-a-farmhouse-table-with-a-kreg-jig Drill two pocket holes on the ends of each board as well. They will be used to connect the main boards to the breadboard.

how-to-attach-farm-table-breadboard Here is a photo of the completed table top from the top side. The overall dimensions of my table are approximately 46 1/4 inches wide by 87 1/2 inches long.

breadboard-style-table-pete-sveen The Farmhouse Table Base

I had to modify the width of the base a bit so that it fit the wider table top. Here is a diagram of the modifications I made to Ana’s plans.

Farm Table Plans
Farm Table Modifications – Click to Enlarge
Modified Width – Click to enlarge

I built the two ends out of 4×4’s. I used 6″ long torq screws (also known as star pattern screws or leg screws) to connect them (about 3  for each joint). The two vertical boards are cut at 10 degree angles (parallel to each other). The lower horizontal board is cut at a 10 degree angles as well (not parallel).

examples-of-farm-tables Connect the two ends together with the 4×4 horizontal beams on top and bottom. I didn’t have an extra set up hands to help me, so I used Jack Clamps to help hold everything up while I tied the boards together with 6″ torq screws. I attached the two horizontal 2×4’s using 2.5 inch Kreg Jig screws.


how-to-build-a-farm-table-and-instructions Attach the base to the top using 4.5″ torq screws through the 4×4 beams. Use 2 inch torq screws to connect the 2×4 to the table top. (I counter sunk mine a bit)

DIY-PETE-Art-of-Manliness Cut the two braces at 45 degree angles. Attach using 2 to 3 screws on top and bottom that are 6 inches long. Drill the screws in at an angle.

diy-pete-farm-table-plans Here is a look at the completed table prior to staining and sealing the piece. I also created matching benches to fit this table. The plans can be found by clicking here. I modified the width so they are a total of 69″ wide. Instead of using a 2×10 for the breadboards I use 2×8’s. Everything else was kept the same as Ana’s plans. The inside span of my table where the benches fit in is 73″ so that left 2 inches of wiggle room on each side of the bench so it can easily slide in and out.

Benches for a farmhouse table Finish

The next step is to make the table unique to you. I decided to distress the farm table by using tools around the shop to make the table look worn. I used nails to create wormhole marks and a circular saw blade and hammer to put some character into the table.

how-to-distress-a-farm-table I then heated up an old bolt with a blow torch and created a neat bolt mark in one corner of the table top.

how-to-distress-a-farm-table-with-a-bolt Use 120 and 220 grit sandpaper to smooth the table and to soften the table’s corners.

pete-sveen-sanding-farm-table Finish

I used a #00 Steel Wool and White Vinegar solution to patina the wood and give it an aged look. Put a good handful of steel wool in a jar and add white vinegar. Let the vinegar dilute the steel wool for at least 3 to 4 days. The mixture will get darker the longer you let it sit. I let mine sit for a full week. Once diluted, simply brush the mixture on your piece. Oxidation will occur as the mixture reacts with the tannins in the wood to give it variations in color. It changed the Fir wood to dark blues, greys, browns, and black. Do not use white Pine because it will not darken much at all. If you’d rather use a stain, Minwax has some great choices to choose from. A couple of my favorites are Special Walnut, Dark Walnut, Provincial, Weathered Grey, and Golden Oak.
how-to-finish-a-table-with-steel-wool-and-vinegar * You can always dilute your mixture if it is too strong. Simply pour a little of the strong mixture in a new cup and add white vinegar. Wipe the solution onto the table with a clean rag. Use a brush to get hard to reach areas.

how-to-stain-a-farm-table-diy-pete Let the solution soak in and dry for about 6 hours. The table will darken up quite a bit depending on how strong your solution is. The boards will all take the stain a bit differently and you never know exactly how it’s going to turn out. That’s the fun part!

vinegar-and-steel-wool-stain Here is what my table looked like the next morning when it was completely dry. It looks somewhat dull until a polyurethane is applied.

steel-wool-and-vinegar-stain I finished the benches using the same technique. I loved the variation and stripes that were created with the steel wool and vinegar finish. I love rustic finishes. However, I know not everyone does, and so a stain with a wood conditioner might be a better option if you are looking for more of an even and consistent finish. Minwax makes a wood conditioner and it helps stain take more evenly.

Farm Style Benches
Benches finished with steel wool and vinegar


Wipe or brush on 2 to 3 thin coats of  Minwax polyurethane. The finish will make the colors pop and warm up the look of the wood to give it a honey like glow.

how-to-seal-rustic-furniture Let each coat dry completely and sand between coats with 220 or higher grit sandpaper.

how-to-sand-a-farm-table Allow the final coat to dry and then carry grab some buddies to help carry the table into you home. This table is heavy, so entice your friends with a little pizza and beer.


Farm Style Benches with Polyurethane
Finish on Benches

The finished table looks great and works awesome for dinner parties and gatherings!

diy-pete-farm-table Like this project? Please share with your friends and family by liking below or pinning the photos to Pinterest! Subscribe to my newsletter to hear about all the latest free project ideas and tutorials!

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  • Peter Dallman

    Hi Pete, I wanted to increase the length of the table to 96 inches. I can do this by increasing the 2×10’s to 78 inches from your 67″, then the breadboard ends would make it a full 96″. Would I need to alter anything about the base other than increasing the support bpards on the underside of the tabletop? I guess I’m talking about the angle cuts of the legs etc.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Peter, I kept all the angles the same and did not make other changes besides what you mentioned. Let me know how it goes and good luck!

      • Peter Dallman

        Thanks Pete! Last question….I hope. Looks like the 4×4’s “kiln dried” are way more expensive than the standard 4×4 posts than my local lumber yard. Is it important for the base 4×4’s to be kiln dried?

        • Pete Sveen

          Hey Peter! With the big price difference I’d go with the non kiln dried 4x4s. They may shrink a tiny bit but I wouldn’t be worried about it for the posts. After cutting each post to length you could always paint the ends to help prevent them from checking. To sum it up, I’d say you’ll be just fine with the non-kiln dried posts. Send me a photo when you are done! Can’t wait to see your table. Cheers – DIY PETE

          • Peter Dallman

            Table number 1 made..It was a lot of fun. I altered the table a little because I was worried about someone (like me) pushing myself up on one of the breadboard ends and pulling those srews out. I used a 2×10 for the breadboards. So, I added a 2×4 skirt around the table with a 2″ reveal, it only really covered up the butt end of the cross support 4×4 which I wasn’t crazy about seeing either. I also deleted the top 4×4 post that wasn’t seen. Now I’m stressing about the vinegar/steel wool stain….
            On to assembling the second table!!

          • Pete Sveen

            Nice job Peter! It is looking great and I love the ideas you came up with for the modifications. The apron/skirt was a great ay to do it! Good luck with the staining. The vinegar/steel wool reacts with all wood differently so do some tests first on scrap pieces to see how you like it and how strong you want to mix it. Have fun assembling the second table as well. Cheers and thanks so much for sharing your project! – Pete

  • Anders

    I would like to use this table in the garden, but then shouldn’t there be some space for the wood to expand?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Anders, sounds like you have a fun project in store for the garden. I’d recommend using cedar if going outdoors — otherwise to use 2-3 coats of spar varnish on the table and to re-seal it once each spring. I haven’t had a problem with the wood expanding on the tables I’ve built using the kiln dried pine. Thanks for the great question!

  • Tim B.

    Hey Pete…my wife and I really like the look of this table. Thank you for providing such detailed instructions and pictures. My question is this…our space is too small for a full-sized version of this table. If we wanted to make this a square table, would the supports need adjustment?

    Thanks for your help!

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Tim! The one thing I’d think about is how many people you want to be able to sit at the table. There is a lot of room on the side, but you might want to adjust the ends so the people would have a little more leg room while sitting at the ends. If you keep the same width (5 boards) — you’ll be able to keep everything the same on the supports, but shorten up the 2 side rails. Making adjustments (no matter what you decide to do) is pretty simple for this table. You might want to check out Ana’s plans (which I have a link to in the post) — as her table is a bit smaller. Good luck!

  • George

    Hi Pete! In the process of applying second coat of poly on my table. Mine is kinda big (5×8). Quick question: Did you use any wood filler in the spaces between the boards of the table top? If so, what kind did you use? P.S. My wife loves the table……going to try the coffee table next….Thanks for the detailed instructions.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi George! Great to hear from you and congrats on building the table! I haven’t used a filler between the boards on my tables. If you did, you’d want to find a filler that was fairly flexible. I don’t have a great recommendation — otherwise I’d name a type and brand. Sorry I’m not much help there –but enjoy your new table and great work on building it. Looking forward to seeing your coffee table as well! – Cheers – Pete

  • George

    Pete, here are a couple of pics.

    • Pete Sveen

      Nice work George!

  • Kelli Delahousie

    Hi Pete,
    My husband started putting the clear coat on our table and as it dried it started cracking and peeling. It didn’t stick to the table top at all, it just wipes off. We used a steel wool/ vinegar stain. The table was clean and dry. We used Minwax Polyurethane Oil Modified Water Based. Is this our problem?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Kelli! Interesting, I’m a little curious as to what is causing this. I have never used the Minwax poly oil modified water based poly. I’m guessing this could have something to do with it unfortunately. You may need to sand off the current poly as best as possible and try it again with either a pure waterbased or a pure oil based poly. I feel that you’ll have a better outcome with pure oil based as the colors will be more vibrant. Just apply in a well ventilated area and plan to wait a bit longer for the poly to dry between coats. I’m going to get some of the modified poly from Minwax that you used to experiment with and see why it happened. In the mean time, do a little sanding and then the oil based finish. That’d be my recommendation. Perhaps do a small sample area to make sure this remedy will work. Cheers and good luck. You’ll have to send me a photo of the finished table! – Pete

      • Kelli Delahousie

        Thanks for the quick reply. My husband got to looking at the instructions on the can and it says not to sand wood with steel wool prior to application. There must be something about steel wool that causes a reaction with this stuff. Too bad, 1 QT of this stuff was about $20. Lesson learned. We will def. post pictures when the table is done.

        • Pete Sveen

          You bet Kelli! Bummer about the first poly but I’m sure your second round will be a good one. Enjoy your new table and thanks so much for checking out the project video and my site. Cheers from Montana :) – Pete

  • Peter Dallman

    Hey Pete..Building two tables and benches begining of June…Judging from the pictures on your build it looks like you might have extended the base farther out to support the breadboard ends than either of the tables on Ana’s or Shanty’s site. Is this true?
    P.S. Going back to an earlier question. I will be going with green (non kiln dried) 4×4 posts..What would you recomend I paint the cut ends with to help prevent checking or twisting?

  • Justin

    Could I cut the 4x4s with a 10″ miter saw? Also can I use an older Kreg Jig model?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Justin! Yes, a 10″ miter saw will cut a 4×4 in one swipe. Second, I’m not sure which model of Kreg Jig you have, but I’d say it should most likely work for the project. Good luck!

  • Kent

    Pete, by any chance can you share the plans for the benches?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Kent! You betcha. The bench plans came from×4-truss-benches — I modified total width just a bit to fit my longer table. I’d recommend having about 2 inches of wiggle room between the side of each bench and the 4×4 on the table. So if the distance between 4×4’s is 60 inches, make the benches 56. We love the benches and they are very solid. Good luck!

  • Michael Heuer

    Can you provide the shop list and cut list for your modifications from Ana’s site?

  • Tim

    Pete – this looks great and I’m going to give it a try myself. You mentioned that the vinegar/steel wool finish shouldn’t be used with Pine since the wood will not darken much. Would you expect the same result if working with spruce (I’m on a tight budget, haha)? Thanks much.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Tim! The vinegar/steel wool reacts differently with each type of wood because of the tannins in the wood. So I know it reacts well with Doug fir as that’s what we have out here. White pine around here doesn’t seem to take as well — but I’d recommend testing out a few scrap pieces of the spruce to see how it goes! If it doesn’t react how you’d like you can always do a stain and it will still look really nice. Let me know what you decide and how it goes!

  • Michael Heuer

    Can I use 5 in screws instead of the 4 1/2?

    • Phil

      I couldn’t find 4.5″ screws anywhere so used 4″ screws – readily available and cheap at HD – and just counter sunk them a half inch

      • Pete Sveen

        Thanks for chiming in Phil! Glad the 4″ screws worked for ya. Cheers – Pete

  • Eric

    will that steel wool and vinegar solution work on most woods? Or does it need to be a particular kind of wood for it to work?

    • Pete Sveen

      Quite a few and the tannins in each variety will react differently. So definitely test each type of wood prior to doing the entire piece.


    good job like the bar table and wester table to show more please

    • Pete Sveen

      Feel free to check out the video if you haven’t. If you are talking about the concrete / cedar bar, I have free plans for that available which are in depth. Have a great day!

  • Jonathan

    What kind of lumber was used in your project here?

    • Pete Sveen

      Douglas fir.

  • Michael Vooris

    Hi Pete: Love the table. Is it possible to do another layer of a different stain after the vinegar/steel wool stain to get the distressed looko and also add a different color?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Michael! You certainly can do a layer of stain over the vinegar/steel wool application. I’ve done it plenty of times. Always test on a scrap piece of wood prior to doing the actual table to get an idea of how it will look. Good luck and please post a photo of the finished table, I’d love to see how it turns out! – DIY Pete

  • Max

    what are the odds we can get a “shopping list” (if you already have one) to get all the material in one swoop instead of my normal routine of going back and forth to the big box or lumber yard. It would be ideal to have a list of lengths of pieces needed.

    e.g. – 4 (4 x 4 x 16) – 2 – 73″ length support base
    2 – 43″ width top support base
    4 – 25 3/8″ for height support base (cut at 10 degree)
    2 – 36 1/4″ for width support base (cut at 10 degree)

    etc, etc… – just to ensure I don’t miss anything…

  • Brian

    I see that you used Fir in your video. The local Lowe’s doesn’t carry Fir but they do have Pine and Whitewood. Not really sure what Whitewood is. I would like to get the same (or a similar) look as you got on yours. I see that you don’t suggest using Pine, what would you suggest I use?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Brian! That’s ok that they do not have fir. You can use Whitewood/ any type of pine. I know the vinegar/steel wool reacts well with the fir. I would buy a board of each type and see how well it the solution reacts with it. All woods will vary in how they react with the solution. If you simply plan on staining and not using the solution then feel free to use any type.

      • Cody Katen

        Brian, if you have to use pine, go ahead and brew some strong tea before hand and rub the tea solution on your pine. Let it soak in and you will give the pine the tannins necessary for the vinegar/steel wool solution to react with. It won’t give you the exact same finish but should be close. As always, find some scrap pine and test it out first before you build to see if you like the finish.

        • Pete Sveen

          Hi Cody! Thanks so much for chiming in and for the great advice. I appreciate it!

        • Landon

          I am having the same issue, finding Doug Fir so I’m thinking of experimenting with the tea and vinegar/wool solution. When you say strong tea are you referring to black tea? Also how long do you let the tea soak before applying the solution?

  • Dwayne Coulson

    Pete, really want to build this for my deck. I am not crazy about tbhe benches, though. We have older folks that come over for cook outs. Any plans for similarly matching chairs, avialable?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Dwayne! I unfortunately don’t have any plans at the moment but would recommend “googling” for simple 2×4 patio chairs or looking on Ana White’s website. I am working on a video showing how to make bar stools — coming in Episode 16 — which you could check out as soon as it’s up for ideas. You could simply modify them to fit the table.

  • Jared Danford

    did you poly all of it including the base or just the top? thanks!

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Jared! I did 3 thin layers of poly on the top and one real quick coat on the legs/base. It’s not necessary but does give it a more finished look and makes the color pop a lot more. I’d recommend doing it on all the surfaces you can see.

  • Patrick

    Working in my table. It’s for my wife for our anniversary.

    • Pete Sveen

      Heck yeah! How did it turn out Patrick??!!

      • Patrick

        Pete, it turned out great and my wife loved it. We hosted Christmas at our house this year and everyone complimented on the table. I built one bench and put a cushion on it and there will be chairs around the rest of the table. I don’t have a good photo of the finished look of our dinning room but here is an old one and he a close up of the table with our Christmas center-peices. I’ll try and get a better picture later.

        • Pete Sveen

          Great work Patrick!

          • Patrick

            More pics for you.

          • Pete Sveen

            Awesome, thanks for sharing Patrick! Nice work with the covered benches as well!

  • Patrick

    Not sure why it didn’t post the picture. Here it is.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Patrick! Nice work man! Thanks for sharing the project photo and enjoy your new table!

  • Liberty with Vengeance

    Mr. Sveen, Trying to do this build. Is 25 3/8″ the correct Dimension for the legs? I cut them, stood them up with a 4×4 and a 2×4 on top and it seems pretty short. The legs on your table and Ana White’s look longer in the finished pictures.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Pete Sveen

      Sorry for the delay. Did you cut them at 10 degrees and parallel to each other? I just double checked my measurements and I used the 25 and 3/8 cuts. Good luck with your table! – Pete

  • Casey

    Thanks for the inspiration Pete! Here is how ours turned out; we modified it to fit our space better, it’s 6′ x 6′. Fun project!

    • Pete Sveen

      Nice Work Casey! And I love how you did the base. Keep on building!! – DIY PETE

  • Amber Farmer

    Thanks so much for the video and pictures! I’m going to ‘attempt’ to make one bench. I printed out the plans. We are going shopping tomorrow. My table is 110″ long w/leaf and 88″ w/o. So my plan is to make the bench 85″ (shortening the aprons an inch each) in-case we take out the leaf. Any tips for a first timer??

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Amber! You are going to have a great looking table! My tip would be to have fun with the project and to know that each project you do you’ll learn something new and improve your skills. If you run into questions along the way let me know. Good luck! – DIY PETE

  • thereverendofficer

    I did the double patio chair as my first ever wood project. I LOVED
    IT… i really wanted to do a farmhouse table for our family, but the
    grooves made it impossible to do with 4 little kids as there would
    always be food in them. So I did the table but coated it with a very
    thick epoxy coating I found and put some pictures down before I did it. I
    took the design from the chairs, modified it to make it without the
    center piece and made one LONG bench with a back (a must for us) and connected a smaller bench without a back to it, making it a corner table. I made the table a little wider and just a hair longer to fit everything… We absolutely love it. It is amazing…. Only problem now, every wife in the church is sending her husband over to make one :) Thank you so much for this website. The plans are great, but the videos are a lifesaver.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi! WOW, you did a great job and I love it. How rewarding to have it completed and so neat that all the husbands are inspired to build what you’ve built. That’s what is all about. Helping and inspiring others. NICE WORK. Keep on building and I’d love to see project photos of whatever you decide to make next! Feedback like yours is what keeps me pumping out project videos. THANK YOU! – DIY PETE

      • Pete Sveen

        Lot’s of great project photos and I love the epoxy idea!

  • Guest

    Here are a few pics

    • Pete Sveen

      Great project photos! THANK YOU FOR SHARING :)

  • Guest

    Here is a pic

  • Duane

    This may be a dumb question but how long are the braces that go under the table (the ones cut at 45 degrees)? I looked over the instructions but could never find it.

  • joshua Thompson

    What type of 4×4 was used?

    • Pete Sveen

      I used a Fir 4×4.

  • Erik Winebrenner

    Hey Pete, excellent write up and video! I was wondering if you could provide the measurements for your bench (specifically the 4×4 support beam). You said “I modified the width so they are a total of 69″ wide. Instead of using a 2×10 for the breadboards I use 2×8’s. Everything else was kept the same as Ana’s plans.” But in Ana’s plans, her support
    beam is 65″s so that doesn’t seem to add up in my head once you add the 4×4 ends on each side but the overhanging 1×8 breadboards. Thanks in advanced!!

  • Ty Frith

    Finished as an Xmas present for my Mom, 10 ft table and 8 ft bench!! Thanks for the plans and inspiration Pete, cheers!

    • Ty Frith

      Ordered some awesome metal chairs for the side opposite the bench

      • Pete Sveen

        Great idea!

    • Pete Sveen

      Amazing Ty! Great work bud. I love it!

  • Dean

    Hi Pete,

    What size are the kreg pocket screws? The supplies say 2.5 inch, but the link states they are 1.25 inch?



    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Dean! Sorry for the wrong link. Yes, they are all 2.5 inch kreg screws for the table top. Thanks for asking and letting me know about the link Dean!

  • Dustin Sims

    I have true 2″ cherry and 4×4’s in the kiln. I’m going to use your plans! I’ll keep you updated. I might make a youtube video of the build.

    • Pete Sveen

      That is going to turn out gorgeous Dustin! Wish I had cherry out here to build one too! Would love to see a video of your build. Good luck and most importantly have fun Dustin!

  • nothing3

    what plane did you use for the edges that werent quite flush? ive never used a plane before and idk which one to buy

    • Pete Sveen

      I used a basic hand planer. You can pick them up for about twenty bucks at the hardware store :)

  • Dustin Sims

    Solid true 2in cherry. Thanks for the plans.

    • Pete Sveen

      WOW!! Dustin, you did a fantastic job. It’s so fun to see how you turned a cherry tree from the forest into a beautiful piece of furniture. I’d love to share this with others on the Facebook page with your permission :) Or feel free to post to the page and I’ll re-share it for ya. Cheers and enjoy that gorgeous table! – Pete

  • Nick Milan

    Anyone have any problems with getting chairs at the end of the table? looks like there isnt much room for people sit there. Any suggestions to mod the project if this is a issue? Going to be starting the project in the next couple of days.


  • patrick

    Hey hey Pete, do you have a complete cut list specific to your table or do I just not see it? Thanks.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Pat! I unfortunately don’t have a complete cut list at this time. That is a great idea to create though. Thanks!

      • patrick

        Not necessary anymore, Pete! The table is complete and it was a complete success. As a first time DIYer the experience was great and everything was super easy to follow. Thanks !

        • patrick

          Nuff said

  • Guest

    Hey hey Pete, do you have a complete cut list specific to your table or do I just not see it? I noticed Ana’s cut list but I wanted to know what was specifically different about yours. Thanks.

  • Ivy H

    Hi! Your table is beautiful and I LOVE the finish! I’ve been eyeing this table on Ana White’s website for awhile now but have worried about the gaps in the table top. I have three little kiddos who spill stuff on the table all the time. How would you recommend sealing the gaps so that it doesn’t drip through or damage the table? I’d love for it to be completely flat and easy to clean. Silicone? Wood filler? Poly?

    • Pete Sveen

      Hi Ivy! Without using a planer and jointer you’ll have gaps and I don’t unfortunately have a great recommendation on filling them. Many people use placemats to help. Clear silicon is an option to try — or a flexible wood filler. Can anyone who’s done this please chime in? Thanks and good luck with the build Ivy! – Pete

      • Cody Katen

        Not sure how well this would work, but one idea if you have a table saw and a friend handy is to run your boards through to just take off the 1/8th inch rounded corners. This should give each board a nice flat top to bottom edge and create a nice clean joint. I made a coffee table once where I had to cut some boards down to size to fit and they joined up nicely…you will however lose the grooves snd it can be difficult to tell the individual boards apart.

  • Eduardo

    Thank you so much for the plans, very easy and clear instruccions. I live in Chile, so thanks to the internet too. Here is a photo of the table i made using your plans as a guide. I used douglas fir for the bases and white pine for the top of both table and benches. You where right, the white pine doesnt react very much whith the vinager and wool, but in the end i kinf of like the contrast. Thank you again! Be well

    • Pete Sveen

      All the way from Chile, that’s awesome!

      Your table turned out great Eduardo. Thank you so much for sharing! Can’t wait to see what you build next.

      Chile is on my list of places to visit someday. I hope all is well! – Pete

  • Monica Srey

    Hi there, I was hoping to make modifications to this table plan and am crossing my fingers that you would help me? I was hoping to make an 8 ft by 3.5 ft table. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks so much!

  • Chad Brandon Campbell

    I grew up just north of Longview as moved to Houston about 8 years ago. What are you interested in building?

    • Pete Sveen

      Very cool! Cheers

  • Bruce (@Brudaddy)

    Pete, why did you go with the torque screws rather than the 2 1/2″ Kreg HD screws that Ana used in her plans? Was it because you built a wider table top? I’m curious.

    • Pete Sveen

      Hey Bruce!

      I didn’t have the HD jig at the time :) Otherwise I probably would have used the 2 1/2 inch HD screws. That would would be why. Cheers!

      • Bruce (@Brudaddy)

        Cool. Thanks!

      • Bruce (@Brudaddy)

        So, is the HD Jig something special/different than the one you used in the video? I’m unfamiliar. I plan on making a version of this coming up this summer.

  • patrick

    Here is the final product!

    • patrick

      I also just made some countertops for anybody who wants some tips /plans !

      • CJ Travis

        Great work, Patrick. Was wondering, what type of finish did you use on this table? Is that a dark walnut stain?

  • Clark Ross

    Great write-up and very helpful video Pete, thanks! I was wondering, after reading through a few comments on the Shanty2Chic site (originators of the plan, given to Ana White), if you had any issues with the five 2x10s (that form the tabletop) expanding and/or contracting as a result of the humidity and consequently affecting the evenness of the breadboards that you initially cut to fit that width with? I have little experience woodworking and I am concerned with putting all this work and money (albeit relatively cheap) into something that, according to the pros, by not taking the mortise and tenon approach, is doomed from the get-go. How is your table faring thus far, and your thoughts on the potential naysayers? Thanks in advance for your time!

  • Dusty Purcell

    rookie question… are the posts measurements truly 4×4 or are they actually 3.5×3.5?

  • Rachel

    Just a quick question. Did you use pine or just premium fir available at Home Depot/Lowes, etc? Did you allow the wood to sit in your house for an extended period of time to adjust to the humidity conditions in your home, or did you just go for it and starting building as soon as you had gathered all the lumber? Thank you.